Building 50 bookcases. Have certain requirements for the plans.

[Robert Bonomi]

This does -not- directly address the actual question you asked, but....

Have you considered the "Lazy Man's Solution(tm)" to the basic problem? To wit: 1) "standard design" bookcases 2) some 1x2 stock, in various lengths

Where you want to have books 'face out', you simply lay down (loose!) a strip of appropriate length along the back of the shelf. Then stack the books in, bottom of the book against the 'spacer', top of the book against the back of the case. Voila! Books lean back, so they won't 'jump off the shelf'.

Do the dimensions right, and you can use the _same_ spacer for full-size hardbounds and paperbacks, simply by rotating the stick,

Note: the 'spacer' doesn't even have to be wood -- a piece of cardboard, folded into a triangular tube also does the job. And you've got a continuing source of _that_ in the cartons books are sent to you in. Hard to argue about 'free' materials.

[Larry Jaques]

On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 21:02:28 -0800, "S. Dees" calmly ranted:

And I was half kidding when I said to do that, too.

What the bookshelf companies are doing is making the shelf deeper, then angling the backs inward and dadoing the shelves at that angle. 2 single-panel wide ends cover two shelves with space in the middle at the bottom.

Take an angle gauge (offroad stores and Harbor Freight have them) into a bookstore and measure the actual angle. (8 to 12 degrees ought to do it.) Alternatively, measure the depth of the cabinet and the depth to the back, then figure it yourself.

Mark the angle for the end pieces, then cut them to the narrow topped beasts they'll be so they're lighter to work with.

Cut slots in the end pieces at that angle, creating a V shape for the 2 backs, then cut the shelf dadoes @ 90 degrees to them.

If you prefinish all the pieces before cutting, a quick spray of lacquer will tidy them up once they're assembled.

Glue 'em and screw 'em once they're at the site or consider quick disconnect hardware so they're portable.

Good luck. That sounds like a helluva lot of heavy work even before you get your stock of books.

Question: What type of bookstore are you opening? New, used, rare, remaindered stock? I'm a book fiend.

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[John Grossbohlin]

It looks to me that all they are doing is making the ends tapered and the shelves are a uniform depth from the front and square to the front edge. The back is probably set in a dado that is parallel to the front. I wouldn't be surprised to find that they have heavy duty shelf standards on the ends, set in dados, to support the adjustable shelves. Perhaps you can get a good volume discount on the shelf standards and clips to make it pay off? They look pretty straight forward to make... if you really want to that is!

John

[Ron Truitt]

I've seen retailers build their own cases before and they concentrated on fine materials and simple design.

You might consider using a "stop" piece on the front of the shelf. This would serve the same purpose as the slant in terms of keeping the books on the shelf.

But the title edge would not be slanted up toward the eye so that may be a key factor also.

If doing that many bookcases I think I would rip all the parts on a good table saw and then mark the angle slots on the sides. Then I would put a dado on a radial arm and cut the dados for the sloping groove.

There are many great woods available if you are inclined to make a statement with the cases. You might even sell some cases!

Good luck to you and give the big box boys a run for their money!

RonT

[S. Dees]

[S. Dees]

Thanks for the support! I figure that it won't be too hard to do all of them once I get going, and figure out exactly what I am doing. Cut 20 or 30 pairs of sides at a time. Cut all 350 shelves at the same time. Etc, Etc. Tremendous time-saving advantages. Sean

[Lee Gordon]

OK, how about this. Since you plan to display some books the "normal" way and some face out, why not build regular bookshelves and then make a supply of book-width wedges. Then, whereever you wish to to display a book with the cover facing out, you slide one of the wedges under that column of books so that they will be tilted back at the desired angle.

Lee

[mare]

Watch out for repetitive strain injuries though. And for accidents because you fall asleep.

[Larry Jaques]

On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 20:50:53 -0800, "S. Dees" calmly ranted:

A coffee bar goes well with a book store. I remember my first trip to Borders Books in Peñasquitos (North San Diego area) and the treat it was to hear a duo play and have a good cup of coffee while I browsed and read the magazine I had just bought.

So what wood and finish have you decided on? Solid wood or ply with solid edges?

Try a couple coats of Waterlox rubbed out with wax using 0000 steel wool on the end caps. People will definitely comment on the smooth, nice, warm feel of the wood, and I think that's what you're after for the mood of the store. It's quick and easy for touchup, too.

Lacquer might be the best option for the shelves, backs, and inside of the end caps. It should be safe with all books.

Be sure to stack, pad, and secure all the finished pieces where you won't have to move them again. Each move is a potential scratch scene.

[Philip Lewis]

I'm with the crowd that suggests regular bookshelves with "insert" bookshelves that are full depth, have a back, and an angled bottom for the "specials" you wish to display.

Option 2, you can have everything stored spines out, with a row of "special" books in stands above where they are located. (single book holder with a bar or something to prevent casual removal, and a sign that says "see below" or possible "4th shelf from top")

Personally, while browsing dvds this past weekend, I thought it's be nice to have a scan of the front/back cover stored in a database for "browsing" the stacks... A public access computer linked (read only) to your current inventory would be great... possibly with a shelf location returned along with the other info on the book. In the books case, you might include scans of the inside covers on books where info on that book is kept. Keep a FAQ page for the store on that computer as well. (I am happier when i can help myself to information rather than having to find someon and then wait for them to be free.)

Good luck!

[patriarch]

Larry Jaques wrote in news: [e-mail]:

I'm just curious if you have worked out the amount of space required to manufacture, assemble, finish, cure and store all of these shelves, prior to installation? That's a lot of space, just for drying racks for endcaps coated with Waterlox. Consider also the installation sequence for the rest of the retail space. You have floors to put down, too.

Were it me, I think that, as early as possible, I'd try a prototype all the way through to the final installation phase. Then I'd take the plan and sample out to bid with a couple of good, preferably local, cabinet and/or millwork suppliers. Just for a reality check.

There are economies of scale with equipment, staff and skills...

Waterlox _is_ pretty, though.

Patriarch

[Renata]

A local cabinet shop predrilled a bunch of holes for me when I bought some plywood from them and had them cut it into widths I was going to be needing. They asked what I was doing with it and when it came out that I was going to be using a portion for adjustable shelves they said they had a nifty piece of equipment that would drill the holes in a snap for a fairly inexpensive cost to me. I gave them the specs and it worked out great.

Renata