I've got a project I've been working on for quite some time. The summer
humidity has made a part swell allot more than I anticipated. Now I need to
take it apart and redo it right. Does anyone have any suggestions for
loosening the titebond 3 glue so I can take the joint apart? I know its
supposed to be waterproof, but the only thing that is really waterproof is a
frogs ass, and that is questionable too.
thanks in advance.
Well, you're right - its not as waterproof as some might think. But,
it does pass a certain level of controlled water resistance testing.
As far as getting it apart - doubtful IMO.
The website lists it as an Advanced Proprietary Polymer....as in
That terminology leads me to believe that if there is a solvent that
will breakdown the bond they probably won't tell you since knowing the
solvent might allow one to accurately identify components of the
loosening the titebond 3 glue so I can take the joint apart?
Yes. Heat will soften the joint enough for you to undo it, and apply
mild separating pressure to the heated joints. I used a heatgun and
fanned it over the joints. In my case, I had to take a drawer apart
,and I used a Quick-Grip as a spreader. It worked fine.
You're gonna love this...
From Woodsmith Vol28/#165 page 9, where they classify TB3 as a "waterproof"
glue on par with poly:
"...to be considered waterproof a glue must pass the ANSI Type 1 test...."
And it goes on to describe the type of testing done:
"... the joint is boiled for 4 hours, then baked for more than 20 hours...
boiled for 4 hours again... cooled down under running water... finally the
glue must undergo a strength test while it's still wet..." As in the wood
must break before the glue for it to pass the test.
I think this sounds a tad more waterproof than a frog's ass, but I guess a
heat gun can get up over 212F and "melt" the glue.
That seems like a heckuva glue test! I wonder if "primate" glue stacks
up...I'm repairing some POS dowelled-mitred F&P cabinet doors right
now. Titebond 2 with a sizing of the endgrain beforehand. Please
If you succeed, please let us know what you did!
I have a panel door that I want to take apart. The plywood panel looks
crappy, but I don't feel like starting from scratch; I would like to just
replace the plywood.
I am real happy with the cabinet, but after I put oil on it, the hideous
pattern came up on the plywood panel.
Other then routing the back off, I can't think of how to salvage it; so if
you have suggestions...
Toller - Probably nothing that you haven't already thought of and
I posted a couple ideas in the binary group. You might consider these
*obvious* but I thought I'd show them anyway.
If the panel is floating you could go another direction.
Cut out the panel leaving say an inch around the insideThen make a new
stile and rail with dado that will slide in to the remaining panel
leaving say a 1/4"-1/2" space between the original stile and rail and
the new stile and rail. This is what I was going to recommend to you.
I have done it before and the only drawback is that the new panel
needs to have some spot glue (cannot float) since the only way to get
it in is to cut it a bit undersize of normal, slide it in one side and
then slide it over to seat in the opposite side. the fianl stile or
rail installed cannot be a dado but needs to be rabetted so it can be
PS- SWMBO is reading this over my shoulder and says ...nobody will
ever understand what you are talking about.
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