I've got a project I've been working on for quite some time. The summer humidity has made a part swell allot more than I anticipated. Now I need to take it apart and redo it right. Does anyone have any suggestions for loosening the titebond 3 glue so I can take the joint apart? I know its supposed to be waterproof, but the only thing that is really waterproof is a frogs ass, and that is questionable too. thanks in advance. Rich
Well, you're right - its not as waterproof as some might think. But, it does pass a certain level of controlled water resistance testing.
As far as getting it apart - doubtful IMO. The website lists it as an Advanced Proprietary Polymer....as in secret. That terminology leads me to believe that if there is a solvent that will breakdown the bond they probably won't tell you since knowing the solvent might allow one to accurately identify components of the polymer.
What about bandsawing through the glue joint and re-jointing the edges?
loosening the titebond 3 glue so I can take the joint apart?
Yes. Heat will soften the joint enough for you to undo it, and apply mild separating pressure to the heated joints. I used a heatgun and fanned it over the joints. In my case, I had to take a drawer apart ,and I used a Quick-Grip as a spreader. It worked fine.
Joel Jacobson
You're gonna love this...
From Woodsmith Vol28/#165 page 9, where they classify TB3 as a "waterproof" glue on par with poly:
"...to be considered waterproof a glue must pass the ANSI Type 1 test...."
And it goes on to describe the type of testing done:
"... the joint is boiled for 4 hours, then baked for more than 20 hours... boiled for 4 hours again... cooled down under running water... finally the glue must undergo a strength test while it's still wet..." As in the wood must break before the glue for it to pass the test.
I think this sounds a tad more waterproof than a frog's ass, but I guess a heat gun can get up over 212F and "melt" the glue.
That seems like a heckuva glue test! I wonder if "primate" glue stacks up...I'm repairing some POS dowelled-mitred F&P cabinet doors right now. Titebond 2 with a sizing of the endgrain beforehand. Please hold...Tom Hedley wrote: snip>
snip
I don't think that will work. As far as I know it is not thermoplastic in nature so heating it will not affect the bond. I believe this stuff crosslinks. But, what the heck - give it a try.
If you succeed, please let us know what you did! I have a panel door that I want to take apart. The plywood panel looks crappy, but I don't feel like starting from scratch; I would like to just replace the plywood.
I have some methods to replace panels in door. If you are interested in trying, post an image in the binary group and I'm sure - well almost sure- we could find a solution.
RE: Subject
Why not do the easy thing?
Call tech service in Columbus, Ohio, they have an 800#.
Lew
Toller - Probably nothing that you haven't already thought of and rejected, but.... I posted a couple ideas in the binary group. You might consider these
*obvious* but I thought I'd show them anyway.If the panel is floating you could go another direction. Cut out the panel leaving say an inch around the insideThen make a new stile and rail with dado that will slide in to the remaining panel leaving say a 1/4"-1/2" space between the original stile and rail and the new stile and rail. This is what I was going to recommend to you. I have done it before and the only drawback is that the new panel needs to have some spot glue (cannot float) since the only way to get it in is to cut it a bit undersize of normal, slide it in one side and then slide it over to seat in the opposite side. the fianl stile or rail installed cannot be a dado but needs to be rabetted so it can be inserted.
Good Luck, J
PS- SWMBO is reading this over my shoulder and says ...nobody will ever understand what you are talking about.
Oh, Tit_e_bond. I thought you were talking about removing breast implants or something for a minute there and wondering what it had to do with wood . . . Oh, never mind.
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