I'd like to know the most efficient way to make fairly large box joints for
speaker cabinets without spending too much time doing it or a lot of money
I do own a router (well two actually) that I usually use for finer work and
edges but with all the templates I've seen, there's chisel work needed to
square up the joints afterwards.
Is there an easy way to set up a template that can handle this task so that
I can use box joints for the sides (and back maybe) of the cabinet?
The pieces have edges up to 80 cm (32 inches) and are typically between 1/2"
and 3/4" thick birch ply.
I wouldn't mind using dovetails instead if it's any easier.
Dovetails would be easier, only because there are fewer, but why are you
even considering making speaker cabinets out of solid wood, when the
acoustic nod goes to particle material?
Box joints can be done on a router, though pieces as large as you mention
would require some handling equipment. It's not rocket science, just a
fence the size of the bit, spaced a bit's width (or a RCH less) from the
cutter. Each cut is referenced to the preceding, just as with tablesaw
jigs, but I have to believe moving a router through a clamped board beats
holding that same large board on a saw. No chisel necessary for any method
I'm aware of.
Personally, I'd use a rabbet/tenon joint on particleboard, then veneer.
Note that veneer does not have to be 1/20th of an inch thick. It could even
be what you resaw and smooth.
On Wed, 27 Aug 2003 00:33:23 +0000 (UTC),
firstname.lastname@example.org (Chris Richmond - MD6-FDC ~) pixelated:
Most post-puberty hairs are usually the same size.
It's universal, though sometimes illegal to gather
for testing purposes depending upon the donor.
Or so I've heard. ;)
- Let Exxon send their own troops -
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Programming
Ply is what's used for Musical Instrument speakers because of MDF not
behaving well with liquids and manhandling.
I guess that using a template with 2-4 guides and a block or 2 to steady the
template against the board and to hold it in place is going to be the
For best looks, these need to be around the same thickness as the material.
Who said they _weren't_ Musical Instrument Speakers?
The original poster stated "speaker cabinets", which could mean car
speaker cabinets, home/audiophile cabinets, musical instrument
cabinets, Sound Reinforcement cabinets, or any other type. The
original poster didn't state what the intended purpose was, so somebody
else stated fact about Musical Instrument Speakers using ply. MDF
is commonly used in home and audiophile speaker cabinets. It
depends upon the intended application.
: Who said anything about "Musical Instrument speakers"?
: Last update: 8/24/03
: "Chris Berry" wrote in message
:> Ply is what's used for Musical Instrument speakers because of MDF not:> behaving well with liquids and manhandling.:> I guess that using a template with 2-4 guides and a block or 2 to steady
:> template against the board and to hold it in place is going to be the:> easiest way.:> For best looks, these need to be around the same thickness as the
Sorry for that bit of confusion.
The material to be used was stated and not a point I wanted to bring up for
I've had enough discussions about what material for which speaker purpose to
last a life-time.
HOWEVER - now that it's been brought up - I'd like to ask if the material
sold as "Betonplex" over here - essentially waterproofed ply with a non-slip
surface is easy enough to glue or should I remove the surfacing if I take
that route with a router?
FWIW, a good friend and fellow band member builds some of the best
engineered (and most expensive) speakers in the world. They use a high
quality, veneered MDF, and build the enclosures using glued rabbet joints.
Panels, cutouts, and rabbets are done using a CNC router, but it's a lot
easier to make a rabbet joint in your shop than to worry with finger joints
or dovetails, particularly in your specified material.
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