Daughter wants to put 3 to 4 'peninsulas' into the attic/apartment to break
up the 50 foot length. These would be built perpendicular to the wall, st
ick out 3.5 feet and be about 28-30 inches high.
I would like to build a box out of 2x10 lumber and screw it to the floor jo
ists and adjacent wall for stability. The final look should be white melam
ine or equivalent. Top will get a 2x12x1/2" board. Everything will need t
o end up white.
What's the easiest way to go from a "2x10" box to a decent looking bookcase
. A shelf midway up from the bottom would also be nice. The back can be 1
/4" melamine panel. What's next? False horizontal member to get the books
3-5 inches off the floor? Build a face frame? Line all the 2-by material
with 1/4" melamine?
Thanks, Ivan Vegvary
stick out 3.5 feet and be about 28-30 inches high.
First think in terms of the individual book cases. I thing that for a
bookcase that is 40" long and 30 inches high, a 2X10's would be over kill.
If I were making it I would make it similar to the one in Popular Mechanics.
I would also may make two bookcases for each peninsula, and fasten them
back to back. This would do two things. One it would give more storage
space, and make it such the the unit could be moved as your daughter
changes her decorating ideas. You may consider putting doors on one of
the two bookcase so she would have spaces to hid stuff.
The idea of a melamine is good, but I would build the book cases with a
top frame, and then go down to Lowes, Home Depot or similar store and
have tops made like they use for kitchen cabinets. Maybe with rounded
corners and edges, in the color of your choice.
Ivan, it looks to me like you are over building by several hundred percent.
Quite often when you go heavier, all you get is heavier - and could wind up
with something very much less usable than you might think.
Remember, we are talking "bookcase/shelves" here, not something to hold
an M1 tank.
If it were me, I would build the carcass out of 3/4 melamine with a 3" toe
kick, one or two shelves and a face frame.
I am no expert, but I recently built a set of 3/4" plywood bookcases
with face frames (glued) and backs (rabbeted and screwed). The whole
frame was 3/4" ply, with all of the shelves dadoed and glued into the
uprights. The tops of my units are in no danger of being sat on (they
sit about 8' high), but they are easily strong enough.
If I were designing a 35" wide unit for the possibility of it becoming
occasional seating, I'd probably put in a middle upright as well. That
should make it strong enough for even your daughter's heftiest friends.
I would like to build a box out of 2x10 lumber and screw it to the
floor joists and adjacent wall for stability. The final look should
be white melamine or equivalent. Top will get a 2x12x1/2" board.
Everything will need to end up white.
What's the easiest way to go from a "2x10" box to a decent looking
bookcase. A shelf midway up from the bottom would also be nice. The
back can be 1/4" melamine panel. What's next? False horizontal
member to get the books 3-5 inches off the floor? Build a face frame?
Line all the 2-by material with 1/4" melamine?
You want a bookcase, not a bomb bunker<G>.
Go to here and check out plans of several bookcases along with the
step by step construction method.
I agree. Just build the bookcases you want and make accommodations for
attaching them to the floor. I make the bottom shelf removable to access
the bottom of the case for whatever I use to attach them to the floor.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
On Monday, September 30, 2013 8:34:18 AM UTC-5, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
ak up the 50 foot length.
This simple, small bookcase was used in college, almost 40 yrs ago, and is
now used in my upholstery shop. It's nailed together and stable. You cou
ld improve on it, make it prettier, max stablillity with better jointery, m
ake it a little larger (this one's 27"L X 22.5"H X 9.5"W. It's simple deco
r, can be moved, butted with another. I've made several of these (improved
design & jointery) for several family member's children. Or maybe use asp
ects of its design for whatever bookcase you build. 3 pics: http://www.flic
Does your bookcase need to be attached to the wall or floor? For the heig
th you're suggesting, I would think a free standing case would do fine.
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