My lathe tailstock quill will also wiggle a tiny bit until the quill
lock is engaged, then it is rock steady. If yours still moves when
locked, maybe the lock needs work. Or in desperation you could drill
and tap a hole in the side of the quill holder so that a bolt would
impinge on the mid-portion of the quill. Make sure the end of the
bolt is smooth and do not over-tighten. This should hold the quill
against the other side of the cavity and prevent quill play. If this
works, weld a handle to the bolt and use it as the quill lock.
Alignment. Mine has two metal blocks on the bottom of the tailstock
which slide in the slot of the ways. The blocks are held by two
capscrews each. To adjust alignment the cap screws are slightly
loosened and the tailstock is tapped with a mallet to correct the
mis-alignment. Yours may not have this feature but it is worth
checking. When setting alignment you should check with the quill
fully retracted and locked, half extended and locked and then fully
extended and locked. The tailstock mis alignment may be due to
sideways shift or rotational shift. Checking in three quill positions
should tell you which it is.
Hope this helps a little.
On Sunday, March 24, 2013 11:37:29 AM UTC-4, G. Ross wrote:
You can also use the capscrews to align you tailstock by simply loosening t
he side you need to go to and tighten the other side.This is good for movin
g in .001's of and inch and smaller if you have the proper indicator.
A correction: The hole drilled should be about 1 1/2 inches from the
headstock end of the quill holder. Otherwise you could not extend and
hold the quill more than half extended. But I still think the
existing quill lock should be checked first.
On Sunday, March 24, 2013 5:30:39 PM UTC-4, email@example.com wrote:
I went over to the rebuilders and they said they could take you on. They are
busy as hell but they can do it. We are in central New York. Call Harry Hartman
607-eight four nine 6028. Here is the website.
Okay, made contact with them, they can do the job, no problem. However I got
a dose of reality. I had in my mind maybe four or five hundred dollars.
Closer to $1500. Tough decision to make at that price. Knew it would be
expensive but didn't realize this. But I do thank you for the advice and
trying to be of help. Did sound like the right people for the job. My
thoughts are to try the drill and tap and keep my eyes open. Possibly get a
new lathe such as the Woodtek variable speed. Thanks much.
Fake email in case you were wondering. So much spam. Real woodart AT
email-com I am sure you can convert that.
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