first attempt at NGR aniline dye, and this stuff is freekin horrible!
ok,,,now on to my question, lol
i sealed the grain using rocklers "wunderfill" thinned out a bit to
allow it to get into the pores of the grain..let it dry over night,
then sanded lightly to remove the overage.
lightly blew off the dust, and procedded to apply the NGR dye, always
keeping a "wet edge"...all went well till the surface dried
the wet dye in the pores "capilaried"(?) out and made some NASTY
blotches on the surface...where am i going wrong on this?
This effect is probably more a property of the wood than the dye.
This happened to me once when I stained some maple. I periodically had to
wipe off the stain that was seeping (capillary?) out of the pores. A big
pain in the but.
What is your wood?
"Traves W. Coppock" <newsgroups-AT-farmvalleywoodworks-DOT-com> wrote in
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 02:10:59 -0600, Traves W. Coppock
<newsgroups-AT-farmvalleywoodworks-DOT-com> brought forth from the
Why does everyone want to make one of the most nicely TEXTURED
woods in the world FLAT AND OTHER-COLORED? (And then whine
that it didn't work.)
Yagotcher Instant Karma there, dude. To repent, do 10 Hail ROYs
and use painted MDF for this project.
Yea, though I walk through the valley of Minwax, I shall stain no Cherry.
Been there, done that! <g>
I use TransTint dye, it can be mixed with either water or alcohol.
Using with a brush is problematic, the alcohol flashes off too quickly
to get an even finish. I add solar-lux retarder to reduce this
tendency, but it's still difficult to brush evenly. I would say that,
in my experience, it is better to spray alcohol stains (!) than brush.
My first attempt at using this, even with retarder, was not entirely
satisfactory, but fortunately it was for a shop cabinet. When mixing
with water, you lose the anti-grain raising properties of the alcohol,
but it is FAR easier to brush the finish without leaving brush streaks
(! = Fire Hazard!)
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