I've done quite a bit of edge joining for making table tops, that sort of thing, and never had a problem with biscuits but I can't recall ever joining anything less than 3/4" thick. For an edge along side plywood I just glue the edge in place. No biscuits, no tongue and groove) No problems.
Max
What happens when the water evaporates?
I dunno, the more I read about these things, the less I see a use for them? Someone in this thread said to use cauls, along with the biscuits? I don't need biscuits if I use cauls, and I don't need them for strength on long grain joints. Mortise and tenon joints are used on edge grain to long grain joints. On face frames like on kitchen cabinets or bathroom vanity, I usually run a dado in the face frame and a lip on the cabinet side, so I guess I could use biscuits there? Could it be these things are over rated, or a tool in search of a use?
They were mechanically compressed. When they get wet, they expand to the point they used to be in. They will stay that way.
Highly. I rarely find a use for mine.
You would truly appreciate an episode of AmericamWoodShop where are boy Scott used biscuits rather than basic joinery to build a computer table.
Along with cutting pieces on the T/S with the blade inclined toward the fence and a few more choice moves, but well you get the idea.
Lew
"Latteral" was a poor choice of words on my part. I meant that the edge alignment is off by as much as 1/64" either way. That is, the biscuit rattles from top to bottom (board laying flat) in the slot about 1/64". Side to side the slop is at least 1/8", maybe 1/4".
I may do that next time. I'll have to play with T&G techniques. How would you cut them? Using a shaper is cheating. ;-)
I was hoping I could use the biscuits for alignment. That's not happening so I might just as well skip them. BTW, the plywood and edging is 3/4" (nominal 23/32").
If I spent $800 on a tool that I could lift I'd better like it a lot because I'd be sleeping with it.
Masking tape? What does that do?
If you ever get a chane to watch NYW, Norn does it with his table saw epuipped with a dado and a sacrifical fence.
That would appear to be about the most simple and straight forward way to do the job.
Have fun.
Lew
There must be something wrong with the blade or the arbor (shaft). The blade on mine cuts a slot just the right "thickness" to fit the thickness of the biscuit. Do you have a caliper (or even better a micrometer) Measure the thickness of the teeth on the blade. With the joiner setting on a smooth, flat surface, measure the distance between the blade and the surface. Rotate the blade (with the cord unplugged, heh, heh) and measure again. If there's a difference, it's the arbor, (shaft). The joiner has to be tight against the work and held tight so there's no chance for it to move up. Plunge *once* and back out. If you leave the blade in the slot more than a couple seconds it will make the slot larger. My son has the same PC joiner that I have and he has no problems either.
Max
I have matching router bits. One cuts the tongue and the other cuts the groove. You have set the height just right but it works just fine.
Max
Not all biscuits are created equal. They're supposed to be 5/32" thick. Quite a few brands aren't. Check the biscuit thickness first.
Think of a 3/4" by 3/4" edging. I glue it to the edge of the plywood. I use masking tape to hold it in place until the glue dries instead of clamps or biscuits (or brads if you're a genuine Normite).
I put an 8" or so strip of masking tape on one side of the plywood (perpendicular to the edge), pull it tight and stick it around the edging to the other side of the plywood. This is my clamp. Like I said, a strip every six inches, and Bob's your uncle.
Luigi
I had the most problems when cutting the face of ply next to the edge to make case goods. There is only 3/4" of edge for the fence to catch and the cutter face didn't have much more. Anyway, I let the tail of the joiner droop as I was plunging and I ended up with wide slots. Some other things that can cause a wide slot: Sawdust under the fence that compresses during plunging. Multiple plunging. Plunge ONCE, quickly. A gummed up cutter blade.
I hope these help. Art
"krw" wrote
Instead of using the front handle of the 557, hold your hand against the top of the fence to secure it down on the ply. If you're still getting too much slop and the edging ends up lower than the face veneer, add a layer of masking tape to the bottom of the fence for cutting the ply. Remove it prior to cutting the edging. This will raise the edging by the thickness of the tape. Be sure to index the 557 from the faces of both pieces. Art
I just watched him build a corner cabinet, and all the shelves were screwed in with pocket screws. In fact, he put the entire cabinet together with pocket screws I think. I have nothing against pocket screws, or plate joinery, but really, there is always a time and a place. Scott does a lot of things *I* consider bad form. The other day he was cutting tapers on a leg using the band saw... This is something normally done on the table saw... Stuff like this make the show worth watching.
Different strokes!
I think this would be fine by me. I don't recall every joining two boards that needed no sanding. 1/128th on each side would make me happy.
Side to side the slop is at least 1/8", maybe 1/4".
I don't believe this matters. I saw our buddy Norm build an exterior door and he used floating tenons and there was 1/4" at least on each side. He said it didn't matter as far as strength was concerned. I believe him.
They were made to do just that job, and does it rather well. Surely you have some scraps left over to test it on first? Just 10 minutes of shop time will allay or confirm your doubts.
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