I'm sure someone here has done this...I have a pile of salvaged maple
firewood, where the figure is too beautiful to burn. As I stack, I set them
aside. I recently got a small portable delta planer, and decided to turn
some of it into parts for this music stand I'm building. I was wondering as
to the best way to get a flat side on what is essentially split firewood.
The method I used, (and it doesn't appear to be the easiest) is to "eyeball"
a cut on the band saw, then flatten that side as much as possible by hand,
then cut slabs off it. Once they're thin enough, I run them thru the planer
to get them dimensioned, then fasten a straight board to them and run them
over the table saw. Then I have 3 straight sides. The hardest part seems
to be getting the bandsaw to cut a relatively straight line when there is no
straight part of the log to run against any fence. Any brilliant tips or
What about a tall fence? Use a flat board - at least flat on one side, and
straight on the adjacent edge. Then drive some screws (countersunk) through
the flat board into the firewood chunk. Use the flat board as the guide
along the fence, make cuts on the firewood. When you get close to the
screws, remove the guide board and screws, flip the firewood chunk over and
use the new flat side on the fence.
I don't know how well this would work - it's a question.
It's a fence which only establishes the distance from the teeth to itself,
allowing free pivot to account for lead in the blade, density difference in
the piece. Think of a capital "L", with the horizontal clamped to the
table, the vertical just prior to the teeth. It can have either a "V" or a
rounded vertical component.
If you've got Duginskie, he shows it.
Sorry Mark, I think I sent this link to your e-mail instead of to the group.
Anyway, I saw this device at the local woodshow. They were using it to cut
boards from logs from a firewood pile.
Seemed to work great. They were using it on a 1hp bandsaw.
I've done this in the past with the jointer - I just run it across until I
get a flat surface.
And, once you've got one surface, you're off and running. It's slower,
certainly, than a bandsaw, but then I don't have a bandsaw, so it's a lot
faster than _my_ bandsaw.
wood, then use the bandsaw and then the planer.
I even use my hand electric planer for carving large logs in some spots. i
at a pawn shop...it seems that most people buy them to flatten out
then they find out that they only end up using them about once a year at
they sell them. it's great for us that use them on rough wood.
they are also useful in smoothing burls for tables and clocks.
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