Thank for replying. Im not going to plant the posts in the ground. I
have those metalpoles which Im going to fasten the posts in. I got a
tip of using my Dewalt 707 and cut half of it and then turn the post
and cut the rest. Think Im going to try that.
If you are going to attach the wood posts to the metal posts you may want
to wait to cut until they are exactly where they are going to end up. Then
you can use a level line or a measurement up from the ground or bottom rail
to determine the final height. Try not to commit yourself to a length until
every thing is in place.
With a square mark 3 lines on 3 sides of the post at the desired location.
with a circle saw cut through the first line full depth. Use the saw kerf
to guide the blade for the cut on the next side. Doing the same on the
third side, complete the cut.
You guys are making me smile with this modern 'cutting off of fence posts at
the right height' methodology.
In the old days I could _precisely_ set the height of a fence post by the
surgical application of a post hole digger and one half of a pair of Sears
... dig a little deeper than necessary, then kick in an appropriate amount
Saw? ... what saw?
If you want a 6' fencepost, well sure. But if you want say a 4' post,
digging 4'+ down to backfill 3 " seems a little...tiring.
Please remove the spamtrap to email me.
"I always wanted to be somebody...I should have been more specific..." - Lily
The old rule of thumb was 1/3 in the ground... for a 6' post use 9', for a
4' post use 6', etc.
Personally, how I approach the installation of posts depends on the
conditions. In "soil" I dig a bit deep and throw some crushed stone in the
bottom to tweak the height. In "rocky soil" or areas with ledge I dig as
deep as I can get and cut the posts to length after installation.
I've spent time recently preparing to install a privacy fence and I fully
expect to run into rocks when I dig the post holes. Today I had to move one
large rock out of way and bury it--way too big to move any appreciable
distance without heavy equipment. My son was "helping" me... at one point I
had a pick under an edge of the rock to lift it up as I needed to remove
some broken brick debris from underneath it so it would sit low enough. I
couldn't do it myself so I asked my son to pull the errant brick out... so
he comes over and stands on the rock I'm struggling to hold up while he's
pulling the brick out! "Sorry Dad!"
I used to do this but since the all the of the fences that I build have top
rails across the tops of the posts the top must be flat. The problem I had
with using a speed square is that I cut full depth and the motor housing
hits the square. When cutting with the blade being horizontal, hand
location is not a problem, both hands are on the saw.
Tom, It can be done with a hand saw. A crosscut saw, if it's sharp,
will work very well. All you need is an accurate square, and
something to mark with - pencil, scribe or whatever works.
Start on one face and mark a line at the proper location. Continue
the line around all 4 sides. If accurate, the line will meet the
first line. Then saw to the line across the top of the board, and
down the side facing you. The two lines you can see will keep the saw
cutting square. As you get about half way down the side facing you,
rotate the post away from you, bringing the third side into view. The
existing kerf will keep the far side of the saw alligned as you cut
down the third side. Then repeat for the 4th side. If a little care
is used, you will get a nice square cut.
And it never hurts to do a practice run on a piece of scrap!
Hope this helps.
Keep in mind that you don't want to cut them square, unless you have some
kind of cap going on the top ends. Cut them at about a 15 degree angle from
all four sides, leaving a pyramid top that will shed water. Makes the
concept of a perfect cut a little less important too.
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