Awl, Knife or Pencil

[Dan McLaughlin]

Yup - I have a set of them (right,left and double) and also use them. Dan McLaughlin

[e-mail]

[John McCoy]

"Leon" wrote in news:wJDib.2190$eg5.655 @newssvr22.news.prodigy.com:

Ditto. (aside to Gordon - a double bevel knife, one of Pat Leach's specials from a few years back. Dunno if he still sells them).

John

[Lawrence Wasserman]

Yes

[Ron Magen]

'Shop Pencil' or black felt 'Sharpie' for templates & 'Template making' fine point RED pencil for bandsaw work

0.5mm pencil for 'tic marks' & fine outlines SHARP knife for plywood {for clean SHARP edge}

Regards, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop

[Donald Phillips]

Sharpie & .5 mech. pencil. I really prefer a .7 but they won't go thru the holes in the incra rulers.

Donald

[charlie b]

If it's 2x4s, 2x6s etc. a pencil is close enough.

If I'm doing tight length cuts a single bevel knife. Same for dovetail layout.

Mortise and tenon - tite-mark.

charlie b

[Gordon Airport]

I'm duly impressed. Do you color code the handles or something? Maybe keep one behind each ear ;-) And I can barely keep track of one knife.

[Dr. Rev. Chuck, M.D. P.A.]

5 mm pencil. Sharpened to a chisel point on a scrap of 400 grit wet-dry paper. The end of the Incra rule is more accurate than the holes.

[NFrames]

I awlways use a knife, albeit of the utility razor sort.

[Chris]

Pencil, pen, nail, or anything else that will leave a mark for rough work.

Pocket knife or utility knife is accurate enough for me when doing precision work.

-Chris

[Dave Mundt]

Hum...to an extent, it depends. I tried an awl, but, dropped it quickly as it was hard to get a good line done accurately. MOST of the time i use a flat carpenter's pencil, with the lead cut to a fine, chisel shape, so I get a nice, sharp line. When I am doing "real precision" work, I will often use a marking knife, although I have had pretty good luck with some of the finer point ink pens. Regards Dave Mundt

[CW]

Pencil. Only use a knife when it is needed to sever fibers for a clean cut.

[Anonymous]

Sometimes an awl is best...sometimes a knife is best and sometimes a pencil is best.... :-)

Layne

[Don Foster]

I think this is along the same lines if I may ask; does anyone use a story board or story stick. When out house was being remodeled the contractor kept all measurements on pieces of wood and then transferred them to the wood to be cut. I don't find much about this in any of the magazines or books I have. Thanks for your time and efforts.

Don

[Phisherman]

I use an awl to mark a dimple to drill. I use a knife to mark for dovetails. I use pencil for most other markings. Story sticks are great when you need to repeat a measurement many times. I use them for many projects and when using the lathe.

[Paul Kierstead]

I dunno; I find when renovating an outhouse, the least of my worries is accurate measurements; its a dump anyway.

PK

[Ken]

For any job that requires multiple copies of a piece it is the only way to go. Make sure you measure very carefully and then test one (or if necessary two pieces) before you make the 20 copies you need or you will mass produce scrap wood. For projects you might repeat at some later you can mark all of the key dimensions on one storyboard. Then time take the time to carefully document what the board is for and what each dimension is for right on the board. A measure none, cut once project is real fun.

Ken

[Andy Dingley]

Jere Cary's book , "Building Your Own Kitchen Cabinets"

Excellent technique if you're ever doing fitted work. I don't much like story boards - too mcuh scope for confusion. Multiple sticks are more trustworthy.

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Mostly a pencil, sometimes my Knight marking knife.

I've made a few things that I figured may be worth repeating later. I made templates (1/8" Masonite) of the curved parts, marked locations for tenons on angles parts, etc. Makes for a huge savings in time and assures accuracy. Worth the effort.

[Dave W]

Fine Woodworking has had articles on use of a story stick. Their online index is invaluable! Dave