Attaching solid surface counter top to kitchen cabinets

I have solid surface counter tops in my kitchen. U shaped with stove at th e bottom of the U. The solid surface counter top right next to the stove h as come up a little. When I press on the counter top it moves up and down 1/8". The front corner does. Rest of the counter top seems to be still at tached to the cabinets.
How are the solid surface counter tops attached to the cabinets? And how d o I reattach the solid surface counter top back down to the cabinet?
Looking inside the cabinet it seems like they used some clear glue, caulk t o originally attach the counter tops. But not positive on that. The cabin ets are particle board. It looks like I could shoot some Liquid Nails or o ther glue on top of the cabinets, edge and then put a heavy weight on top o f the counter to hold it down. Wait 24 hours for the glue to dry. Yes? N o?
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On 3/9/2019 12:42 AM, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

That "glue" is likely to be silicone caulk which also functions as an adhesive.
If you are dealing with a mere 1/8", why not just shim it? If the gap is noticeable, I would just lay a thin bead of matching caulk in there after shimming to make it go away.
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On 3/9/19 12:42 AM, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Granite and stone, cultured marble, are usually just shimmed and caulked in place. Gravity does most of the work. It's important that stone is supported every so many inches. The specs vary by manufacturer. This is because stone can and will crack if not properly supported.
I'm guessing in your case a shim fell out at the spot where you can push down. This may have caused the caulk to lose grip on the opposite side. Sometimes these installer just use a glob of silicone under each corner and sometimes it's not even actually touching the countertop. :-)
I suggest checking which position is the most level in both axes. Like when you push down is it more level than when you don't push down. Intuition tells me no. I suspect all you lost a shim in that spot and just need to replace it and glue/caulk it in place. Done.
If the opposite is true, that means you lost shims on the opposite side and the weight is popping the countertop up 1/8" at that section. You'll have to pull out a lot of drawers to check for that. :-)
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wrote:

He said "solid surface" - Assuming he is using the standard nomenclature that would indicate something like "corian" - not stone - which would DEFINITELY be glued, and virtually NEVER shimmed.

With solid surface" I've seen the silicone gle let go - which is why many good installers went to Super PL instead. The good ones put it on 3/4 inch baltic birch ply for stability too.

ANd you can't see the bottom of "solid surface" countertop from the drawers. It's about 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick and fully supported by a lumber substrate (usually baltic ply, but occaisionally MDF or "termite spit" (compressed saw-dust)
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On Fri, 8 Mar 2019 22:42:41 -0800 (PST), " snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com"

Yes.
Many installers used clear silicone. Some used Super PL. Some used contact cement. Liquid nails will do the job, but don't even THINK about trying it with Lepages "no more nails" That stuff is some serious stiff snot -
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On Saturday, March 9, 2019 at 12:42:43 AM UTC-6, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote :

the bottom of the U. The solid surface counter top right next to the stove has come up a little. When I press on the counter top it moves up and dow n 1/8". The front corner does. Rest of the counter top seems to be still attached to the cabinets.

do I reattach the solid surface counter top back down to the cabinet?

to originally attach the counter tops. But not positive on that. The cab inets are particle board. It looks like I could shoot some Liquid Nails or other glue on top of the cabinets, edge and then put a heavy weight on top of the counter to hold it down. Wait 24 hours for the glue to dry. Yes? No?
My counter top is official solid surface. As we think of solid surface. I ts made up, created material. Its not real stone. The top is a dark blue with lots of white flakes in it. And it has a 1/2" band of white along the front edge and 1/2" of the blue/flake below it. Looking up at the undersi de of the counter top it looks like the middle of the counter top is just 1 /2" or so of the blue with a couple strips running across it to build it up to 1.5". And the edges are the full 1.5" with the built up blue-white-blu e. It looks solid 1.5" from the front, but its really only 1.5" around the edges and just 1/2" or so in the middle. With a couple supports glued in.
OK. So I think the plan is to use levels to see if the counter top is leve l with it popped up or pushed down. Then shim and/or glue it down with Liq uid Nails or this Super PL (polyurethane construction adhesive). And put a big heavy vise on top for 24 hours to hold it down until the glue dries. I don't think there was ever any shims between the counter and cabinet edge s.
I now realize I probably caused the counter top to come up. The corner tha t came up is right where I lean when I am standing in that corner of the ki tchen. And my butt and the counter top line up so when I lean back against the counter top, I push up a little with my butt. So over the years I hav e probably broken the original glue joint.
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