Should I pay more for Porter Cable or Bosch router bits? Or should I
just get the Ryobi ones? What about "off brands"? I cannot find a
1/8" bit straight (1/4" shank) cut anywhere that is not in one of the
"higher" priced ones, except in the off brands on Ebay or Harbor
More than what? Maybe, yes, but you can do better.
What do you consider off brand?
I cannot find a
Look here http://www.infinitytools.com/products.asp?dept 89
Infinity, Whiteside, Amana, and a half dozen others that escape me at the
moment are top quality professional grade. Avoid the lowest bidder on things
that spin 22,000 rpm.
I like this company. Good prices. Is Cal-Hawk garbage? I found a
cheap bit for $2.25 on ebay:
there's more to it than just that it's made of carbide! I've got some
really crappy carbide bits. and I have so long lasting, balanced, well
designed bits that are a pleasure to use. And all carbide is NOT the
same. Think ice cream or peanut butter. Ever thought that ALL ice
cream or peanut butter is the same?? No way! A company that puts out
pricey yet superior bits doesn't fold it's tent and go bankrupt because
there are cheapy bits on the market. Discerning woodworkers know that
the expensive bit is worth the extra bucks; otherwise how do you think
Amana, CMT, et all stay in business? Maybe YOU don't want to use the
better brands, BUT THERE IS A DIFFERENCE. If you can't tell, content
yourself with the junky ones.
The one shown is not carbide, it is high speed steel. It wears faster than
carbide. Yes, you may get a cut if you want a 3" slot, but it may start to
burn shortly after. Better bits of that size are solid carbide, not HSS.
Check out the bits at www.infinitytools.com
You'll be on your third or fourth bit. gouging up the wood, burning it, and
I'll still be making smooth cuts.
Next lesson: Types of carbide. Yes there are different grades.
There are many other design factors that also come into play. The amount of
metal, types of welds, and on and on.
Let's say you have $50 in wood and 10 hours in time to get your project to a
certain state. The final step is to cut a 1/8" groove with your router.
Yes, this is going to be very visible, very critical. What bit should you
use? Just something to think about.
You must have a different link. All the ones here are HSS and yes, I've
used one and yes, it is garbage. When I first bought a router AI had no idea
what bits I needed so I got a few cheapies to try it out. Cut about 12" of
pine and I tossed them.
I've gotten some so bad I took them back to the store for a refund.
vipers from HD. I ended up keeping the Woodlines but they don't cut
well. Now that I have a dado blade for the tablesaw I don't need to use
the Woodline plywood bits as often so I see no need to buy good
replacements for the Woodlines.
Thanks. Very informative as your other post. I have narrowed to your
inifinitytools.com site and this one:
Both are almost the same price.
You have been chasing this thing for a week now.
Remember, if you buy them books and they eat the covers, not much you
One more time now:
Good tools, especially cutting tools, are not low cost.
Some are cheap, but they are not low cost.
If I had it to do again I would go with a PC because of it's widespread
availability of add-ons. It seems that everything I read says, "Fits PC
######". Read the catalogs and look at baseplates, router tabletops,
Router-Raiser, etc. In my green-ness I bought the Dewalt 618BK3 (three
bases) and while it's a quality piece I'm a little limited due to
inexperience. You will be able to adapt plates and some other accessories
with a little effort - gatta learn sometime, I guess.
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