advice sought: roughening beam to look like rough sawn lumber

[Juergen Hannappel]

[...]

sand blasting isn#t a bit messy. It's very messy.

[Patriarch]

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in news:OwlXe.271818$ [e-mail]:

Rough sawn is a common surface treatment in the western U.S. Available at almost any good lumberyard, and frequently used as trim and siding.

I haven't really lived elsewhere, so I couldn't comment on what's available.

Patriarch

[Knotbob]

[CW]

Rough sawn a surface treatment? I thought that's how they got it out of the tree. I suppose they charge extra for this "surface treatment"?

[Doug]

What is this Briwax and how does it look? I'm planning on staining the beam a sort of raw umber (dark brown) colour - the tinted wax sounds interesting. The brush is what I have tried with a drill, however, it doesn't cut away at the wood very deeply. Which is why I thought the brightening agent would be a good idea to help break down the wood fibre. The chain saw idea is also something I will try. And as Fly-by-Night said - I'll test first.

thanks all. Doug

[Patriarch]

"CW" wrote in news:yaJXe.527$ [e-mail]:

Of course! It's a business, after all. And the sawn surface is on one face only.

Patriarch

[Bruce Barnett]

Briwax is one of several brands of finishing wax. It comes in several different colors, including: clear light brown Goldon Oak Rustic Pine Tudor Brown Dark Brown Antique Mahogany

has it for $12 for one can, $22 for 2, which seems to be a good price. I have never ordered from them before. I have paid about $15-$16 a can.

It's a wax, and you can put it on any surface. If the surface is porous, the color will absorb better. In other words, it works better if the wood isn't finished. At worst case, you can have clumps of wax in the corners, where there would be little wear. I like it for simulating age - it can be used to add "crud" in the crevices. There is a solvent used (there is a new low odor blend called Briwax 2000) and after drying, the wax becomes harder.

Depends on the wood. Maple and cherry has a very hard grain, and it is not very porous. Pine is soft, and you can distress it easily with a stiff brush. You have to go with the grain, as the softer wood is distressed, and the harder rings remain.

I was thinking of those stiff steel wire brushes they use to scrub brick and welding joints.

[Schroeder]

Contact Sheridan Forest Products in McMinnville, Or - That's what they do for a living...

[TheNewGuy]

This is more just FYI/future reference for anyone, since you have the beam in place already. I found this by accident (browsing Bosch's website):

Rustic planer blades

't know if such blades are made for the more "generic" 12-15" planers out there, but it's pretty cool in concept...

-Chris

Doug wrote: