Why not just put poly over the shellac? I've done that on pieces that have
been oiled and had padded-on shellac applied generally. The poly was placed
on the high-wear area, generally the table top, etc. As long as it is put on
thin and the underlying shellac was dark (I was using garnet) there was no
noticeable change in color. Since shellac uses alcohol as the solvent and
poly uses either water or petroleum-based solvent it would seem to me to be
questionable to mix them together directly.
Shellac is alcohol based. Poly is oil based. I wouldn't try mixing the
two as the shellac will probably float to the top of the poly.
Buffalo, NY - USA
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I don't know if the two will mix or not but it doesn't make much sense to
me. If you want varnish protection put varnish on, if you want shellac level
protection put shellac on, if you want more then shellac and less then
varnish put lacquer on. But, hey, if it makes you feel warm and
Shoot why fool with the two. Liek the other guy says, use one or the other.
I've used polyurethane (Minwax) that looked pretty good.
I applied several coats and then sanded it until it was perfectly smooth and
slick. It was as slick as a sheet of glass.
I then sanded all the scratches out of it all the way up to 800 grit
It now has a nice satin finish that is smooth and pretty. Not as good as a
french polish, but I don't sweat the lamp sitting on the table.
If you want to end up with a finish a bit harder than shellac, you
should start with something other than shellac. If you are determined to
use shellac, you can try adding a little resin such as copal, sandarac, or
even benzoin. These will all make the film a little bit harder but you may
need to rub out the finish to achieve the level of gloss you may be after.
In essence, you are adding a little spirit varnish to the shellac.
To contact directly, remove both NGs.
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