90° Hold Downs For Table Top

T\It's time to put your thinking caps on.

I need to attach this coffee table top to the base, but I want to use some type of hold-down latches instead of the screwed-on angle brackets that were used previously. IOW, no tools needed for disassembly. The latches should exert some downward force so that the top is tight to the base.

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The 4 legged base consists a full width section and then 2 half width pieces. The pieces will be attached together so that it will be a single unit.

4 latches, attached to sides of the full width section, will be more than enough.

I don't want anything shiny like this, I'm looking for something that matches the overall look of the table. These are also too long (5") meaning that they extend too far down the leg. 3" or so would be hidden unless someone is sitting on the floor.

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Something like these, but that are designed to be used at a right angle.

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Thanks for any ideas.

Reply to
DerbyDad03
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Food for thought. Why do you want to be able to detach the legs from the table?

Yes it is heavy but how much weight do the legs actually add to the top?

And it appears to be pretty short so I don't think the attached feet would pose any issue for going through door ways.

Personally I would drill holes in through the bottom of the feet and use long lag screws to go into the bottom of the table.

Reply to
Leon

Because coming up with a cool method would be fun. ;-)

I went to an architectural store and looked through all their window and door hardware. Nothing is really made to work at a right angle.

I did find one window locking device that slid a small post into the jamb but the post was only about 1/2" long. Too short for my comfort..

17 lbs

Tru dat.

Can't be done, at least not through the feet. Where the feet exist there is open space between the top of the legs and the bottom of the table. There is barely an inch of solid wood from the floor to the table.

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I could go through the arches with a 10" lags but I feel that the closer I get to the center of the table, the less secure it will be. 10" of lag with less than 2" in the table, all near the center. If I'm going to go through that much trouble, I'll just make some wooden screw strips, finished to match, to replace the ugly L brackets. That would spread out the attachment points and look ok when someone is rolling on the floor playing with the dog. Brass screws, of course. ;-)

Reply to
DerbyDad03

That is an interesting idea. Of course, no one but me (and you) will know how to get the table apart. ;-)

But the idea of some type of "twist and lock" fitting sounds intriguing. I'm going to let that simmer for a day or two while the finish cures.

Thanks!

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Your original ideas could be implemented, if you were to add small riser blocks, or pieces of angle, on the underside that would give you 2 aligning vertical planes... I do like the keyhole/twist idea...very clever...

Reply to
Brian Welch

Yes that would be dicey.

Rare earth magnets!

Reply to
Leon

Make your own - Glue some blocks to the underside of the table, each side of the legs.... blocks with holes in them. Key the blocks to the legs with pegs/dowels.... maybe tapered dowels to be more easily extracted.

Or some type of keyed application may be the easiest to figure out. Whichever kind of key, attach it with short string/leather to the table's bottom so the key doesn't get lost.

Square headed dowels? .... similar to the decor applications here, but your dowel heads would be extended for grasping.

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Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

Riser blocks are a consideration. Thanks.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Now that would be different!

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Interesting idea. Tapered would even add some "pull-down" to keep the top on tight.

FWIW, all ideas need to be tabled for a little while. (Did you see what I did there?)

We just found out that we've got some family coming to stay, so I've been instructed to get the table assembled and ready for use. I picked up some 2" brass corner brackets for the time being. The table is already rustic, so a few more small holes on the underside is not going to make any difference.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Isn't that basically what Leon suggested in his first reply, except that he said long lags?

if so...

Can't do that...the base has no real place to put the screws because there is essentially no material (wood) between the actual feet and the bottom of the table top.

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Unless you meant putting the screws (bolts) somewhere else besides up through the feet.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

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