You can run a 1x2 cleat around the inside of the MDF glued and screwed in place with 1.25" drywall screws from the back side. If you scuff up the white finish a little for the glue to get a bite I am not sure how you could break it loose. Then you will have something solid to screw your top down to.
Frank 2 layers of Ply not necc unless your tile has the cornered edge and you need to build up thickness, 1-1/4" screws are not long enough, you need at least 1-5/8" and if you want to overkill it use 2".
After the plywood you then need to put down the cement board before tiling this material is about 1/2" thick Most Jobs I have done that use the cornered edge needs 2 layers of 5/8" Plywood and then the cementboard If the edge is going to be cut tile then you can make the top as thick as you want to.
Make sure you use the good sealer for the grout when you are complete it is sure worth it.
Good Luck, George
Frank,
please fix the date on your computer. This is a technique used by some to keep their post at the top of the list.
Greg
sorry about that, i had no idea the clock was a day ahead - mystery. No idea how or when that occurred. Maybe the battery is giving up ?
I don't know, if that were the case I think the other BIOS settings would be playing up too. Anyway, fixed now.
cheers,
Greg
skip the nails. with the proper screws and some titebond it isn't going anywhere. I'd skip the glue, personally, but it's YOUR cabinet.
dave
fgphotog wrote:
I had a national provider of custom cabinets make a full set of "Euro" cabinet boxes to fit my odd-sized kitchen and then added my own doors and drawer fronts. The box material is melamine-coated particle board -- the standard material for this sort of cabinet. I attached my countertops which consist of 3/4" exterior ply, 1/2" exterior ply, 1/2" cement board under tile using appropriately sized screws (stainless deck screws in my case) up through the cabinet cleats and using "trim" washers to spread the load across more of the cleat surface. When building the substrate, you must be sure to stagger all of the seams. Adding some wood glue between the plywood layers and then using thinset between the cement board and top ply layer will give and extremely solid substrate for the tile. Use the proper screws to fasten the cement board to the ply but be sure to get the heads down flush to save aggravation later on! DAMHIKT
I have assembled pre-fab kitchen cabinet bases from Home Depot which are unfortunately 3/4 inch veneered particle board. I need to fix onto the top 1 or preferably 2 (double) sheets of 3/4 exterior ply which will be the base for a custom tile countertop.
My question is how best to fix that single or bottom sheet of ply to the base cabinets, considering that they're 3/4 particle board not solid ?
One possibility is to run a bead of glue all along the top edge and then either use 11/4 particle board or drywall screws to screw it down, or use finishing nails instead, or perhaps rather use small L brackets screwed into the wall and then the the top ?
Advice welcome thanks Frank
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