2" long 3/8 straight router bit?

I use them, would I recommend? I would provided > I am building a kitchen island and I'm using 3.5x3.5 maple legs. =A0I

"End mills" will work in routers and can be had in much longer lengths at:

Lots to choose from, so unless you know exactly what you want prepare to spend some time researching.

Otherwise, call Travers, tell them what task you are doing with the end mills and what your needs are, and they will tell you precisely what you need without you having to wade through the countless choices on their web site/catalog.

--------------------------------- This project may be the justification for the purchase of a dedicated mortising machine.

Might want to check out 4 flute end mills used for metal cutting milling machines.

Lew

I would want something running slower than 22,000 RPM...

MortisePal bits don't have 2" worth of sharp but they're 3-1/2" long:

No, they are not too long; OTOH, 1.25" would be fine too. IMO..

You don't need more than 1.25" cutting length as long as the *total* length of the bit will accomodate the depth you want to cut; after all, you aren't planning on hogging out the entire 2" in one pass, are you?

Eagle America has 3/8 x3" bits as do many other places.

Might I add to that, I used a 3/8" 4 flute end mill bit to cut probably

I would want something running slower than 22,000 RPM...

End mills run fine at that speed. Been there done that with about 1000 plunge cuts in Ipe with a single bit.

The later is an extremely viable and cheaper alternative. ;~)

Would not be cutting >flute length whence flute diameter is =3D shank diameter. Chip will not escape and shank rub will be a problem.

--------------------------------------- Another thought.

A 3/8" carbide forstner bit.

It will go to a depth of 2" with no problem as long as you have the patience to clear out the waste every 1/4"-3/8" of depth.

Lew

He is cutting a mortice. He cuts the mortice length in "X" passes to 1.25 deep. As he goes deeper than the cutting edge, the chips pass out through the portion of the mortice length already cut just as they do getting to

dadiOH ________________________

considering buying a mortising machine:

The wood for these legs cost me about $240 and a lot of time getting them cut and square, so I don't want to screw this up by being cheap about it.

Thanks again, what think of my ideas?

-Jim

considering buying a mortising machine:

The wood for these legs cost me about $240 and a lot of time getting them cut and square, so I don't want to screw this up by being cheap about it.

Thanks again, what think of my ideas?

--------------------------------- SFWIW.

The mortising machine from Woodcraft above uses a 1/2 HP, 4 pole induction motor which is a much better choice than a router based device which operates with a universal motor.

YMMV

Lew

Hey this is maybe not as versitile as a multi-router or other horizontal router but much fmore fun.. get a swing chisle mortiser. A real must if you are doing through mortises and want squared edges with no extra work.

Two inches is may be overkill on the tenon length.

How thick is the cross piece?

I'm amazed this thread has gone this far and no one has yet suggested creating the mortise with a drill and chisel. You probably already have the drill. A chisel takes up little storage space when you are not using it. Paring the sides of the mortise with a sharp chisel is fun!

Actually, that is what I intended in the beginning, but I have 24 of these to do and that way just gets old. But thank you for the suggestion

-Jim

The cross piece is 51/2" x 3/4"x different lengths.

-Jim

BUT, you'd be doing incremental depth cuts for them anyway, so either should work for you.

-- Small opportunities are often the beginning of great enterprises. -- Demosthenes