Quite a lot less than the amount required to get a gas main to a house though, and it would be winter only - yours is averaged over the year. Cooking takes bugger all too - we get through a couple of 13kg bottles a year.
(If we had mains gas, we'd use it. S'pose I could sneak over to the very large gas main they installed over the road a couple of years ago - reckon they'd notice? :-) )
Payback times for cavity wall insulation vary depending on many things, however I have a non standard construction house that has a gable end facing the Pennine hills. Checking back on my gas bills (not easy to get an exact comparison due to other influences) I suspect that I probably halved my heating bills by having cavity wall insulation fitted. The general guide used to be between 3 to 5 years for payback, however with the rising cost of fuel it is probably nearer to two years now.
Switch fused connection unit.
I would box the pipes in to the side and front of the boiler, but not the whole thing.
The programmer appears to be on flex so should be easily moveable a few inches.
Make a rounded cutout in the boxing where it passes over the main switch to allow the switch to be operated.
They might look a bit better once they're painted over, anyway.
Owain
The flame goes out, flame failure device switches off the gas. Simples. B-)
After Christmas, when finances hopefully once again permit, I'm going to take another look at building a Mini ITX system. I've built several standard desktops over the years, so a Mini ITX should be fairly straightforward. These use a LOT less power.
MM
And a storage heater isn't a rapid-response back-up, so gas would be better and that one would do the house on high setting (upstairs is around 13.5 -
14.5ºC, so not a lot required).
See what I mean about back-up? :-)
Strangely it is not advertised in the manual. I suspect because it is not a foolproof safety feature and so nothing that anyone should stake their life upon.
Take a look under the faultfinding section, where the symptom is that the fire keeps going out. You will probably find that one of the suggestions is to ensure that the room is well ventilated.
The principle of operation is that most changes in the composition of air will cause a change in the size and/or shape of the pilot light. The sensor is adjusted so that any such change will cut off the gas supply.
See my previous post. It is by no means a 100% foolproof system but will work in the majority of cases where a room is inadequately ventilated.
Actually, the flame merely changes size and/or shape.
Simply leave the bottom of the box open and a gap at the top.
I did. Judging by the photo I would say the "enormous pieces of wood" would be far less unsightly than the boiler & pipes, and need not encroach significantly more into your walk space than the boiler already does. You would have to custom-build it, but that does not take a master carperter. You could have a small cut-out to keep the switch accessible, though it is not *that* difficult to move a switch.
We also have a camp stove and a two litre bottle of water sealed and in the cupboard for the last 12 years. That was after a digger cut through the water main and left the whole street without water. Also a wind up torch and a pack of batteries for the radio and a voltage inverter we got given that will drive a netbook and router off the car battery. A pack of candles, two oil lamps and matches. And about a months supply of tinned and dried food.
That's backup
I like to keep a good stock of food as I'm an hour's round trip (by bike) on lanes from the nearest supermarket. It's about 4.5h on foot, so some stock is essential. At this time of the year I often use buses - every 2 hours if they run. At least I can walk the 2 miles to the nearest main road for a bus. I do have some gas stoves and cylinders and the soldering blowlamp, so toast flambé is an option.
Thinkpad X60 Core Solo... about 8W doing normal office tasks, 12-16W doing intensive.
That includes a display... however I think the router draws about
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