Woodworm in new bedframe

Hi all,

Just bought a bedframe made of Malaysian rubberwood -- and yes, I did ask that it was from a properly managed source before I bought it :-)

The frame itself is fine but the slats that came with it are some of the skankiest wood I've ever seen -- and I've bought wood from B&Q.

A couple are really heavy, some are very light almost like balsa, some are grey like they've been left in the rain, some have got a 30 degree twist in their 55 inch length and several are riddled with woodworm holes --- well over 150 holes in one slat --- and where the saw has gone through one piece, the exposed tunnels are quite powdery.

I know that no-one's going to use their best timber for the slats but am I being unreasonable in asking the supplier to either replace them with undamaged timber or pay for me to replace them myself with pine?

I'm not happy about taking the 30 degree twist out by tightening them to the frame (particularly since the assembly instructions say that the use of power tools for assembly will invalidate the warranty) but I'm most worried about introducing woodworm into the house. I can imagine the shop saying that the flight holes indicate the woodworm are long gone, but I'm not sure that's the point. And I don't fancy sousing a bedframe in insecticide.

The bedframe was =A3200 so not the most expensive but equally not the cheapest and I would like to keep it if possible because I like the style and, slats aside, it seems decent quality. It was paid for on a credit card so at the end of the day, I could just reject it if the supplier won't budge but I would prefer to sort things out amicably and reasonably for both parties.

Would appreciate any opinions/perspectives on where to go from here.

Reply to
lcpm30
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Back to the shop. Take the dodgy slats with you and tell them you want merchantable quality ones. If they can't supply them straight away, ask for a refund of, say 20% so you can buy some replacements - but be happy to settle for 10%.

I've used 3/8 inch ply for slats before now - they'll manage a 3ft unsupported width with no problem.

Reply to
OG

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Reply to
Cynic

They should supply slats of "merchantable quality" twisted and wormed don't meet that IMHO. If you take the money to provide you own bear in mind it gives them a hook to hang an invalidated warranty on. Also slats are not planed square, the edges are rounded so as not to present a sharp edge to the matress. Even if you have a router your time isn't free...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Or if he uses pine, go for 1". 3/4" is only just.

NT

Reply to
bigcat

snipped-for-privacy@meeow.co.uk wrote in news:1117413442.941246.268030 @g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Or buy sprung slats (from Ikea - around £10 per set). Need a central bar as well - but that can be dead simple. Definitely more comfortable than pine 'planls'.

Reply to
Rod

tell me more... cheap too. I'v never found anything better than wood slats, but I dont use slats as supplie with beds, theyre mostly air. Rather make a set so at least 2/3 of the space is wood, not 15% with numerous small sags and prematurely dying mattresses.

NT

Reply to
bigcat

snipped-for-privacy@meeow.co.uk wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

We got these:

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*13740Had to chop them down in length a little - can't remember but I think that we got the 900 mm ones. Made a centre support (something like 75 x 50) with a couple of well attached legs.

The support the slats provide is fine and it is just a bit less dead than solid pine.

The slats are made of something like birch ply and are Lithuanian.

Reply to
Rod

What happened to iron frames and sprung wire? I suppose you could make an attempt with angle iron, springs, and chain-link fencing...

Reply to
Chris Bacon

mm, looks good. I always noticed thinner slats were a slight improvement, but not robust. Thin hardwood should resolve that problem. Thanks.

NT

Reply to
bigcat

You can't flat pack them for home assembly.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

snipped-for-privacy@meeow.co.uk wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Well - I am of somewhat larger than average size and don't fall through!

Just remembered - we bought three packs - and added a couple of extra slats from the third pack to each side. We have a kingsize bed and the standard Ikea length wasn't quite there. (Odd, though, even the slats supplied stopped substantially short at both ends. As they did on most beds that we saw in shops. It began to seem normal to see mattresses gently sloping downwards at the foot end.)

Reply to
Rod

they were spaced so far apart as to give that famous coarsely corrugated sleep feeling. A flat wood board was an improvement in nearly every case.

Why use iron bars and springs when you can use thin hardwoo.d

NT

Reply to
bigcat

What? Rubbish. You are *supposed* to put a mattress on the bed, you know...

a) What iron bars?

b) Far better ventilation of the mattress.

Reply to
Chris Bacon

you dont say. Obviously that doesnt make it level. When youve got 3,4 or 5 crossbars supporting springs it is inevitable that the end result will be corrugated.

the bars that support the bottom end of the springs.

true, but does not outweigh the corrugation effcet, terrible on poeples backs, far worse than a less vantilate mattress.

NT

Reply to
bigcat

What sort of system is that?? I have never seen one. I think you are talking about something else!

Reply to
Chris Bacon

that would make sense. Hers what I was discussing:

Rectangular outer frame

Typically 3/4/5 iron crossbars evenly spaced slung many inches below the outer frame, with edges bent up to attach to the frame. Bit like this but more rounded:

: | | : \___________/

Add lots of large vertical springs:

: | S S S S | : \_S__S__S__S__/

and chicken wire across the top. Now you have a sprung bed base. Sounds all very luxurious, but the fact that you will never get a level surface in practice makes then not so good on the back. Give me a hard flat wood base over these any day.

I wonder what you were referring to.

NT

Reply to
bigcat

I have never seen that construction before. I meant:

--~=================~-- | |

cross-section. The (2"?) angle irons at each side are drilled to receive the ends of expanding springs (~), every few inches. The mattress rests on a wire base (=) which has a diamond pattern, with rather elongated diamonds, which is held all around by the springs. The angle iron (bed iron) is a complete frame, and has dogs on each corner which either slot or screw into cast-iron lugs which screw onto the bed head and foot. Just looked for a picture, can't find one. These were used very extensively.

Reply to
Chris Bacon

In article ,

Sounds like the old Vono bed frame?

When they began to be discarded Vono's were precious for the quality of their angle iron.

Reply to
Tony Williams

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