wood knots

I have bought odd bits of architrave and skirting board in the past
that have had knots in them. I've primed and painted them and they
haven't caused any problems... yet.
I've never used knotting solution; should I have done?
I've tried to google to find out more about it but I am getting
conflicting advice: some web sites say treat all knots regardless but
others say only treat weeping knots. Is that why I've been fine,
because mine weren't weeping?
Another site says that they can take years to weep and they might look
fine now but play-up later. Is this true?
What about black knots? I was taught to avoid wood with them in. I
presume that knotting solution won't save them?
Do I have to use a special primer on top of knotting solution? One web
site said you must always use an oil based primer on wood, yet so many
primers are water based. All multi surface primers seem to be water
based and crown wood primer is too, though dulux is not.
Does the base of the primer make a difference?
Are all knotting solutions equal or are some better than others?
Reply to
I used water based acrylic primer over knotting. No probs. I just knotted as a precaution.. no idea if its necesssary or not, but its cheap enough so why not?
I would say they are all pretty much equal, frankly.
Reply to
The Natural Philosopher
I did the same with a door frame & the knots started to show after a few years.
I always though all knots shouls be treated.
With my door frame yes.
I've always used any old primer over knotting.
I'd always assumed they were much the same.
Reply to
The Medway Handyman
Traditionally based on shellac, which is only soluble in alcohol. The resin that oozes out of knots is soluble in white spirit and hence oil based paint
Reply to
Stuart Noble
So that would explain why the instructions say to wash your knotting brush in meths, not white spirit. It would also mean that there is no advantage in using an oil based primer. Thanks.
Reply to
On Sun, 20 Jan 2008 16:14:19 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@reply.to.newsgroup.com wrote:
Don't bother washing it. Just wipe the thick off it, then next time you go to use it, a spot of meths beforehand will soften it.
My knotting solution is home made - shellac sanding sealer. Get some cheap shellac from somewhere with a good turnover of stock (Screwfix's button shellac) and dewax it yourself. Leave it to stand undisturbed for a week, then gently pour off the top 2/3rd as "best" and leave the stuff with the visible cloudy wax in it behind. Use this as sanding sealer and knotting. You might usefully add about half as much meths to it. I get through a ridiculous amount of shellac - I use it for everything, from waterproofing cardboard to thread-locking fountain pens.
For brushes, go to a cheap artshop / remainder bookshop for illiterates and buy a artist's _synthetic _ watercolour brush. A 3/4" or 1/2" filbert shape is about right. These are ideal for shellac.
Reply to
Andy Dingley

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