We have a pile of pearwood discs around 10-12" diameter, bark still on. The
y're starting to dry and cracking badly, cracking from outer edges running
partway toward the centre. I take it the outer wood is drying faster than t
he inner. How can I stop them cracking?
On Friday, 7 October 2016 14:28:01 UTC+1, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
hey're starting to dry and cracking badly, cracking from outer edges runnin
g partway toward the centre. I take it the outer wood is drying faster than
the inner. How can I stop them cracking?
Timber has to be dried at a controlled rate to prevent cracking.
The end grain can be painted to help in this.
Timber shrinks as it drys.
Cracks appear because the outer has dried too much before the inner,
A wood turner up the road from me waxes the ends of freshly felled
timber he gets, so they can't dry out through the ends.
I suspect it's also important to dry slowly, at least initially,
i.e. outside but out of the rain, and not in a heated house.
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
I am afraid that wont work either. For sure even drying helps, but even
drying wont eliminate the fact that wood is by its nature anisotropic,
and shrinks differently in three dimensions. Up the bole, radially from
heartwood to bark, and tangentially around the bole.
If its going to dry at all, it WILL split if its thick.
"The great thing about Glasgow is that if there's a nuclear attack it'll
look exactly the same afterwards."
On 07/10/16 14:27, email@example.com wrote:
No, that is not the reason. The reason is that wood shrinks least along
the grain (up the trunk) then least radially (the diameter of the trunk,
and most tangentially or circumferentially.
Which is why wood warps cups and splits in the way it does as it dries.
How can I stop them cracking?
There is in fact only one way, and that is to soak them in a particular
chemical - whose name escapes - me sold specifically for that purpose.
Ah. polyethylene glycol (PEG).
Otherwise section the logs and use the wood in parts, as described here.
Truth welcomes investigation because truth knows investigation will lead
to converts. It is deception that uses all the other techniques.
Well I can assure you that nothing works except soaking in PEG.
When wood cells dry, they shrink at different rates in different directions.
It took many many years before people worked out how to create wood
planks that did not split, and even then they still cupped and bowed and
Canada is all right really, though not for the whole weekend.
On Friday, 7 October 2016 19:16:26 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
In days of yore timber was sawn radially.
Next best thing is quartering.
Most timber is just sliced these days. Hence the splitting and twisting.
Talking of quarter-sawn timber...
Being the cheapskate I am, I've generally been able to buy my musical
instrument making wood from fairly common sources and then stored it
until it's air-dried to the standard of ready-to-use tonewoods. For
instance, the last lot of mahogany I bought: I selected the sliced
planks that were accidentally on the quarter and took them out of a
pile of other planks.
I'm having trouble finding quartered softwood in common situations: I
suppose nowadays the sapwood is stripped off for manufacturing boards
as most of the planks I see are the more pest and rot resistant
I found a couple of random "Railway sleepers" from B&Q were cut on the
quarter but they had been pressure treated and I don't really want
that. Does anybody have any suggestions for finding softwood boards
that will be priced at normal prices but might include occasional
accidentally quarter-sawn timber that I might select out?
Perhaps I ought to add that I only use the odd plank or two at a time:
I don't need a lorry-load!
That's the sort of thing I'd be willing to do. The equivalent doubling
up of the cost per length is still a much cheaper option than buying
purpose-cut. Most wide boards I've looked at seem still to be
heartwood (from bigger trees) and if they don't go right through the
centre you are more likely - using your illustration - to get two 2x2s
to use and throw away the middle 2x4.
I wondered whether certain grades of scaffold plank would be any good
but I'd been unable to find out much visually because of the metal
strip at each end.
Scaffold planks are normally whitewood. Technically more stable than the
usual redwood, but impossible to get a decent finish on. Blunts cutters
and gums up abrasive cloth.
I was once sent a sample of fast grown 8"x 1" redwood from the Scottish
borders somewhere that was as dry as a bone and flat as a pancake.
Failing that, try and find some Finnish stuff or a discarded Ikea
headboard where the wider 1" sections are actually superb quality. I
hauled one out of the council wood bin at the tip this morning :-)
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On Sun, 9 Oct 2016 13:32:42 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
Yes, but this is sort-of the point. I can go to a specialist timber
supplier who will saw up logs, season them and charge me mightily for
doing so. Or I can find everyday stuff being sold at an everyday price
and pick out the planks that are special to me and store and season
them myself. I've still got enough mahogany(see above) and rosewood
(odd offcut billets that I resawed) and even a board of ebony that
just turned up in bargain bin in a timber yard but I've running short
Sounds like musical instruments to me.
Rosewood and ebony for fingerboards. Mahogany for necks although I
Bodies are often fruit wood, but sometimes softwoods (evergreens
pine/spruce/larch/fir etc etc).
The problem is no one grows softwoods for 'woodwork' - it's all
structural lumber and as such the quality is poor and the cost is low.
Sometimes parana pine has been used for finer work, Douglas fir and
cedar a little, but that's it.
Softwood is too unstable generally to be useful beyond structural work,
where a mm of movement goes unnoticed.
"In our post-modern world, climate science is not powerful because it is
true: it is true because it is powerful."
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