'''Paddle mixers''' are used for [[plaster]], [[paint]], [[resin]]s, [[lime ]] mortar, [[papercrete]] and occasionally other things.
==Small paddle=Small cheap mixing paddles are intended to be used in a regular [[drill]]. Typically these have a hexagonal shaft, and are often [[paint]]ed orange.
==Standard Paddle=These are intended for a mixer drill only. They have a threaded end, and ar e larger & heavier duty than the above types.
==Home made paddle=They're easy to make if you have a welder. A few people have tried a short length of chain welded to the end of a rod, and report better results than a rigid bar.
==Mixer drill=These run at around 500rpm with about 1kW, and are designed to be used for longer under load than a standard mains drill. They have a threaded socket to take standard paddles.
==Standard drill=Not designed for paddle mixing, prone to overheat, and they run too fast wi th too low torque. Paddle mixing with them tends to void any warranty. They remain popular because only a paddle need be bought, but work throughput i s poor compared to a purpose designed paddle mixer.
Drills with a 2 speed gearbox work a good bit better, use low gear. But the y're still not suited to the task.
==Self contained paddle mixer=If you do a lot of plaster mixing, one of these might suit. They can be lef t running, enabling other work to be done.
They generally consist of a large bowl and an overhead motor & paddle, but other patterns exist too.
==Horrible hybrids=Paddles can be modified to better suit the task and the motor in use. Here a 500rpm [[paint]] mixing paddle was modified to pulp paper at 1000rpm: * one of the 2 rotors was cut off to increase the ideal working speed of th e paddle * the blunt rotor edges were sharpened to improve pulping * the threaded top end was evenly ground down to fit a mains drill with 2 s peed gearbox. (this is far from ideal, but we needed it right away and coul dn't find a mixer drill within driving range).