Just received my Screwfix bumph through the post and see they have various
SDS drills on offer. Which do you think is best value for money?
Looking to buy something for general DIY where my normal drill can't cope!
Bosch GBH2-20SRE (500W) £90
Bosch GBH2-24DSR (620W) £140
Dewalt DW566K (650W) £135
I have had a sds drill for years (B&D Proline) which has been used
professionally, for DIY, and lent out countless times. Now this does not
have a rotary stop and has never needed one.
How many times to you actually need a rotary stop for DIY?
People buy an sds for drillling and not on the basis of chipping a few tiles
of the wall once every five years. It is not worth an extra £45.
Spend £90 on the drill, £1.50 on a cold and bolster chisel and £3.99 on a
lump hammer. Sorted
"Duncan Lees" <duncan-at-snsys-dot-com> wrote in message
You are joking aren't you? I use mine with rotary stop engaged about 90% of
the time. Most of the rest is core drilling. The only other masonry work I
generally do is drilling for rawlplugs, when I use a standard hammer drill
as it is quick and simple. Most of the time my hammer drill has a 7mm
masonry bit, the SDS has a cold chisel and my battery drill has a cross
point screwdriver head. I rarely need to change bits and I can sink sockets,
chase cables and screw the back boxes to the wall with no bit changes.
It took me over an hour to chase a couple of channels for my speaker cable
before SDS was invented, using a cold chisel and hammer. Since then, I could
do the same job in less than five minutes.
I can't imagine the OP using his drill for chiselling 90% of the time. He
wants it to drill holes - and infrequently at that.
I don't think he would have to drill many core holes either. The point is
you don't need a mechanical chisel for DIY work. You may want one for an odd
occasion, but you don't need one.
I would not have used a power tool to chisel a massive channel for speaker
cable - I would have gouged a fine recess by scraping the tip of a chisel
along the wall. Less mess, less making good.
Yes. Maybe your idea of DIY is different to mine. However, mine involves
running lots of pipework and cables. Whilst drilling holes for rawlplugs is
a fairly frequent need, it is unlikely to trouble any hammer drill and
wouldn't in itself persuade me to buy an SDS. For me, SDS means easy
chiselling and core drilling (i.e. for bath/sink wastes, or extractor
outlets). I suppose if you have no plumbing or electricals to do, the
chiselling aspect won't be so important.
You obviously haven't seen my speaker cable.
No. Don't get me wrong. I'm not one of those buying 200 quid interconnects
and enthusing over the subtle hint of honeysuckle and shades of camomile.
However, having thick speaker cables does reduce voltage drop and has some
effect on frequency response. If burying, I tend to use something reasonable
like 105 strand OFC, which is cheap as chips. It may not be chunky, but it
does need more than a scratch in the plaster to bury, though.
DIY can mean many things, for me it means rewiring my house, replumbing
etc. not just the infrequent hole. And this goes for plenty of us here.
And anyway even if the intentions is not to sue the chiselling function
much -it's be a shame not to spend the bit extra for a useful function.
I bought mine after getting fed up slogging away with my walls cutting
holes for backboxes and channelling out the brickwork.
After I had used the SDs to do the first one in a few minutes with ease
it had already been worthwile.
But it will be a 50% (£45) increase for the drill with roto stop, and what
I am saying is that while it may be useful, is it really worth the extra
cost for DIY ?
You could go on forever paying a bit more for the next model up with the
extra features. Sure, you may use the features for a, but do you need them -
you have to draw the line somewhere.
Given x amount of money to spend, do you buy a drill and roto stop to use
the stop feature once, or do you buy a plain vanilla drill and planer,
sander, cordless etc and use all the tools more often?
I would advocate only buying what you need, not what you might need.
With DIY there are very few tools you actually need, but a far greater
number you may need may want, or which you thought you may need and use
If you want to do any channeling and box sinking then a drill is a crude
tool. Far better would be a proper box sinker attatchment or an attachment
for an angle grinder. Both would be quicker, have less disturbance to the
walls and with dust extraction, much more tidier than having bits of block
and dust fly all over the place.
The attachments would not cost any more than a good drill with the roto
stop, and be much more cost and time effective.
If you think you will need to do some channeling or box sinking for a
one-off large project at home, or for more regular jobs, then you would buy
the best tool for doing this, or hire it for one-off. Yes you could use a
roto stop drill, but it is not the best tool to use, and certainly not the
tool to buy on a might use basis.
In the three months since I acquired my SDS I have used it for the
With Rotostop engaged:
Demolishing a concrete block wall;
Removing a roomful of tiles;
Chiselling a window rebate to make the sill fit;
Chasing walls for shower plumbing;
Chopping walls to make bath fit;
Modifying hole around a waste pipe to adjust its position.
Total: several hours work. Would have been several months with
hammer and bolster.
Drilling three holes.
Total: several seconds work
I generally use my trusty hammer drill for plain old drilling. The
SDS causes too much havoc and destruction 8^) And I haven't got such a
wide range of bit sizes.
I'm just a "normal" DIY-er, honest! No kind of professional at all.
Ben Edgington <><
Note that email to firstname.lastname@example.org is discarded. However,
I would buy one with a compulsory fixed roto stop that can't be turned off,
but not one without a roto stop at all. Obviously, having the choice is much
better! I consider an SDS drill to be primarily a powered chisel, with the
added benefit of taking chunky drill bits, like core drills.
I prefer the flying chunks of the chisel to the quite spectacular dust
storms of an angle grinder.
IMO Yes, also if he bought the Makita it would only be a 30 increase.
You are correct - you can keep adding features that you will never use.
However look at the OPs first post - he specifically stated he wanted an
SDS for the cases where "general DIY where my normal drill can't cope!"
- I would have to include chiselling under the list of jobs that a
normal hammer drill would not cope with! "general DIY" also suggests a
broad range of tasks for which the more flexible tool might be better
Well if the OP has wall like ours then there are times when even
drilling a 5mm hole 15mm deep *requires* the SDS!
I would suggest buying a tool with a sensible set of features. With an
SDS I would suggest having the roto stop is a sensible feature to have
especially as it does not cost that much more.
There is also the argument that you can get satisfaction from using a
good tool which is smooth, powerful, gets the job done without too much
vibration and operator fatigue, and then lasts for years.
Most of the box sinker attachments require roto stop.
You would need some *serious" dust extraction to make using an angle
grinder for chasing walls indoors a sensible proposition!
For things like box sinking I think you will find the drill with a
chisel is actually a pretty effective tool.
Angle grinders throw vast amounts of dust all over the place.
I'll grant you that *good* (aka *very* good) dust extraction on an
angle grinder may reduce the mess but that is yet another extra for
suitable vacum device hoses etc.
Box sinkers are not cheap. Screwfix single box set is £84.99, the
single and double box set with 30mm channelling chisel, 5 x 6mm
drills, circular cutter and SDS bolster type chisel is £189.99. The
dust extraction unit £69.99 (Yes, £69.99, that is what Volume 72 has
it listed as, for a polypropylene moulding, typo for £6.99?)
I agree a box sinker is the best tool for sinking boxes but they ain't
cheap (see above) and you *still* require the roto-stop drill. For
just a few boxes a plain chisel is far cheaper. And, in my case, saves
a minimum 50 mile round trip to the nearest hire shop.
Channelling I just cut through the plaster along each edge of the
channel then zipped up the middle only minor break out from the skim
and cutting at of 6' in a matter of minutes. Plaster in large lumps
not pulversised to dust that a channel cutter would produce.
Dave. pam is missing e-mail
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