oh, and can you recommend any gloves from b and q or screwfix as i want them tomorrow as opposed to online ordering is possible
I spose a grinder will cut through any glove anyway, is there a minimum standard?
also ,will ear defenders do over plugs?
one final thing!
am i limiting myself in anyway by going for a 9incher? - i.e are some things only available for the smaller grinders? one possible use i might have is a paint removal tool - so i can get rid of some paint on an old shed and paint over
a quick browse of the screw fix catalogue shows some items only being sold in 115m diameter and some things sold by shank/thread - does this mean they are interchangable on different grinders?
and make sure the goggles are "indirect vent" (i.e. not the sort with small holes all over the side of them - those let thorough angle gringer debris too easily) - better still a full face visor.
Well the switches don't clog with dust and get stuck on... which has happened on some cheapies.
(its worth getting a better quality of machine for stone cutting since the dust is abrasive and will knacker lesser machines sooner)
Diamond disks are steel and won't break. Abrasive disks generally don't break either unless you abuse them. Dropping the machine when running being one possible way.
If you are cutting down and towards you it will tend to snatch the machine away from you and possibly up. Generally easy to control but don't get you head up close to the back of the machine. They have guards round the back of the blade - never use one without for cutting.
Good quality leather rigger gloves are best IME.
A grinder disk will tend to burn or abrade skin if it contacts. It does not cut rapidly like a circular saw does. A good glove will offer some protection from contact. Steel toe shoes are also worth having when cutting blocks etc. (even if you don't chop your toes, you are sure to drop a half brick on them before long!)
Yup, better in fact.
To be honest, ultimately you need both sizes. Jobs like grinding, wire brushing, or running flap disks are much easier with a small grinder. They also spin much faster.
The small machine is probably the better bet there.
Generally stuff is interchangeable between grinders of the same size.
mo coughed up some electrons that declared:
Just buy ordinary rigger or gardening gloves (leather).
Yes of course.
Tim
mo coughed up some electrons that declared:
Yes.
4.5" can take a flap wheel sander - though these can leave circular marks as they are pretty violent.AFAIK, the thread is pretty standard amongst all of them and had been for a long time.
115mm/4.5" is the bit that matters, assuming it says "for angle grinder".Screfix will refund you anyway if you give it back in mint condition.
Cheers
Tim
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There's a limit to how much you can take off the tops of posts (probably
3" max.) because of the risk of exposing the steel reinforcing rods. Exposed steel will rust very quickly and 'blow' the surrounding concrete, leading to crumbling of the posts.It would be much better to concentrate on getting your posts level rather than trying to rectify later by cutting. Cutting tops off 6' posts with an angle grinder is potentially dangerous, either because you'll need to stretch to head height or stand on a ladder to do the cutting.
Cic.
A 9" AG is 2300w or so. Thats as 'strong' as 3 horses, wheras you are as strong as one bloke called Mo.
If the blade catches during a cut the grinder will kick back & you won't be able to hold it. Always stand to one side of the cut line & be aware of where it will go if it does kick back.
The object you are cutting can also move if the blade jams in the cut, so make sure its held down.
Dunno about that. I have a 10" PPPro one which is more than ok. It doesn't have indents at 90 degrees etc so for accurate stuff you check it with a set square, as just using its protractor scale doesn't quite work. It doesn't slide as easily as it should but is very rigid so I'll forgive it that. Being 10" you don't often need the slide feature anyway. A decent make costs 5 times as much.
I suggest always wearing goggles or similar when using one. I tend to use mine for cutting metal in places difficult to reach with a hand hacksaw, or if the metal is too thick. I always wear a full face visor for such tasks - a hot shard of metal in the eye is no fun, similarly a sharp bit of gravel if you cut concrete (different blade for the angle grinder). Normal safety glasses or goggles are a pain if you happen to wear spectacles as they mist up. A full face visor doesn't steam up and is actually more comfy to wear.
I even wear it when using a cold chisel and bolster hammer now after an incident when a tiny flake of concrete chipped my spectacles. Costly error.
Thanks for the help all.
I got the Hitachi set in the end, very very nervous when I opened the big one!
The instructions were a bit crap, I was putting the nut on the wrong way and the blade was wobbly, my neighbour fixed that also also showed me how to do
2 of my gravel boards, I then did a further 2, and it is not THAT scary luckily.Whilst I am here...
I want to paint my old concrete shed, is there a decent add on I can get to take away the old paint that is flaking away - I spose a sanding attachment? I don't want anything to aggressive tho - better off by hand?
Hopefully I will be able to use this to cut my soon to be purchased paving slabs - either concrete ones or natural ones. Any tips? How many do you think the blade will do before being too used? And indeed, how do I know when to change the blade?
One of the "knotted" wire brush attachments for angle-grinders, e.g.
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