I am going to paint my landing and I need to reach the space above the
stairs. I want to get a ladder but ideally have one that is good for
general use in the future as well. As there are so many different types of
ladder, which type should I go for?
Bought a set of these some time ago out of Aldi.
Three in one converts to the 'A' frame,straight and as you can see
The platform is a great way to position it on the stairs,one side goes up a
couple of flights,other side goes down a couple.
Makes wallpapering,painting,plastering a doddle.
Thanx Benjamin. The stairs in my house go round in a circular direction -
as you travel up the stairs, by the time you get to the top you are facing
in the opposite direction. Is this ladder still suitable?
Sounds like a perfect app for a homemade ladder. The good thing about a
multisection wood ladder is you can put it together anyway you want at
any time, using heavy steel brackets to join the parts. Pilot hole and
screw, and in a few minutes you've got whatever shape you need. Its
also easy nuff to make restrainers that sit on the steps and prevent
any ladder movement, and sidebars that prevent any chance of tipover,
no matter how far out you reach. If you have the basic cability to
design a wood ladder, this really is the safest option. OTOH for people
that dont understand redundancy and splitting, better to leave making
36x63 CLS is good wood for making a heavy ladder. Reject all cracked
wood. The square shape makes jointing sections easy. Minimum of 2
screws for every joint, pilot holed to prevent splitting and fixing to
nearly full depth of wood. Add rubber feet, a wide top standoff, small
high load rated brackets for joining, and in stairwell use 2 full stair
width rails to prevent side movement, secure the feet, and you've got a
rigid working platform far safer than any ali ladder. Ply is better for
working platforms than chip or plank, but planks are widely used.
If you have access to a digital camera you could upload a couple of photos
of your stairs to a site such as http://www.imagehost.ro/ so that we have
some idea of the space restrictions. Whether you can use the ladder for
general use in the future depends on the type of ladder that will fit on
your stairs. A 3-way ladder such as
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId 0232&ts199&idf861 or
combination ladder such as
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId 0232&ts 641&id271 can
be used on stairs and in lots of general situations but I can't say whether
they will fit on your stairs or reach far enough to the highest point of the
ceiling. Other options to consider are hiring access equipment from a tool
hire centre, and you can apply emulsion using a paint roller on a telescopic
handle. In some situations the only solution is to build a wooden platform
on which you can stand a step ladder.
No matter how much help you give someone online, there is a fatal flaw
in human psychology in that the explanation of the problem is not
necessarily coming from someone who is capable of describing it
Or to put it another way:
How the hell are we supposed to know what an idiot won't tell you?
It's bad enough in real life trying to second guess what an idiot does
tell you. Consider the shenanigans going on in politics today with a
chimp running the USA and a sock puppet running this one.
And now an attempt at a "one size fits all" solution:
You can make a ladder out of 2 x 2 PAR if the grain is straight and
clear of knots. If not, use 3 x 2 for the sides and knot free 2 x 2 for
Treat the timber with an oil based preservative if it is to be used
again and store in a dry area, off the ground. Any cuts made must be
double painted with preservative as the end grain will absorb more.
If the ladder is to be kept indefinitely it might be an idea to let the
rungs into the sides of the ladder. One third of the depth of the
section to be let is plenty. 2 x 2 is actually 44 x 44 mm so cut the
steps 15 mm or so into the sides.
So long as the ladder is balanced in use, it does not matter if one
side is longer than the other. This allows you to make one with a side
tthat sits on a step lower than the other.
If the matter of comfort is a requirement, the rungs aught to be set in
at an angle permitting the foot to rest on a flat surface. Either that
or shave the rung(s) that will be stood on longest to suit.
Once the preservative has dried, the rungs can be glued and screwed.
Pre drill the screw holes to prevent splitting. (and of course treat
the open holes before assembly.)
I doubt very much that anyone would go to the bother of making one of
these things to save 20 or 30 quid. It is set out here merely as a
lesson in DIYing. (And replying to the sort of person that comes here
If you have any problems with my style, please feel free to put my
posts in your filter. I am far too good to be read by fools.
Weatherlawyer, there are always people like you on every group. Those that
are idiots or overly proud are those that charge forward doing the job
without any research whatsoever. My posts were fine. There was no way I
could have posted them any other way as I needed to see the images of the
recommended ladders to then further query whether they'd be suitable for my
staircase as I am unfamiliar with such types of ladder.
I wouldn't put my life on the line using one of YOUR ladders, thank you very
much. Glueing the rungs to the stringers would be pointless as the bond
would very quickly break owing to the dynamic loading and stressing of the
timber. And I certainly wouldn't trust the tensile strength of screwing
into endgrain!! (Please note I have been boning up on my basic physics
Proper timber ladders have round-section rungs with tapered ends, which are
tightly wedged into recesses in the stringers, not glued. The ladder is
held together by thick galvanised wire ties with washers each end, spaced
every six rungs or so, which stop the stringers coming off the ends of the
rungs. Even my old wooden step-ladder has these ties. The rungs are
usually hardwood, e.g. Ramin.
And why bother with liquid preservative (which would make your glue bond
even weaker) when you can simply use pre-treated timber from the merchants?
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
There is no necessity to copy the rounded design of commercial wood
ladders. Nor to use hardwood - but deviating from best design does mean
more wood and more weight to stay safe. 2x2 is marginal but should be
passable if not overweight. What concerns me about talk of homemade
ladders is its too easy to miss something and end up with a dangerous
contraption. For example there wasnt much detail on rung fixing, and
this is a critical issue. Fix it wrong and you're looking at a serous
accident. If and only if someone understands the engineering
principles, ie redundancy, what size of wood is carrying what load (and
no it isnt 2x2 on a 2x2 ladder, or even close), what wood size is
needed, and understands fixings properly, then they can be safer than
any shop bought ladder will ever be. Trouble is, if you dont know what
size screws to use, dont pilot hole them, or dont put the right number
in the right place, it can go very wrong.
Maybe we need a piece on wood ladders and how to ensure theyre safe, or
at least as safe as a ladder can realistically be.
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