What energy efficient lights do you use for your kitchen?

T i m wrote:

I can understand that.

Yes but it's pretty... Same argument really as the one between a single 4ft fluorescent and multiple halogen downlighters :)

Hey - it was 2' actually! To be fair, the only thing it achieved was us not falling over each other1

The front room at this house is half the size of the one where we lived before which is what prompted my to bury everything in the walls. It cost twice as much as it would have done with everything in the room but we've saved an awful lot of space.

Sounds a lot more challenging than my projects!

That will come before too long hopefully... Garden next after the inside of the house!
Steve
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On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 23:41:09 -0800 (PST), stevelup
<snips>

I like the idea though. Does it work well? I was given a 42" Plasma recently [1] but there is nowhere in this 3 bed Victorian cottage to put it!

Well, not really, just more of it maybe. Like when we built the Kit car. Many people (at that time) had done the various bit's involved in building a car when repairing one, they just hadn't done them all at the same time! ;-)

Garden, noo, we aren't *that* old <g>! No, motorcycling, cycling, boating, power kite flying / bugging, RC modeling, clay shooting, archery, camping .... ;-)
All the best ..
T i m
[1] A chippy mate was given id from a trendy clothes shop when doing some shop fitting in there and gave it to me when he replaced it with an LCD jobby. I think there is some slight burn-in on the screen but I thought it might make a good Wii screen. ;-)
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On Tue, 26 Feb 2008 11:09:15 +0000, T i m wrote:
I was given a 42" Plasma

Here's my address....
;-)
--
Mick (Working in a M$-free zone!)
Web: http://www.nascom.info http://mixpix.batcave.net
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It's a great way of hiding something that is large and would be otherwise out of place. For more inspiration and loads of pictures of other peoples work, have a look here:-
http://www.avforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=59

Something I have always fancied doing but never had a garage until now. It's on my 'list of things to do before I die'...

I don't mean planting pansies... Big rugged things involving diggers, rocks and wood :)

The nice thing about Plasma's is that they are pretty Wii-proof compared with LCD's!
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wrote:

8 x 60 watt flush spot lights - bulbs last ages, much better light than halogen spots !
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I *think* you might be joking. At least I hope you are :)
I question that on every count! The lamps don't last as long, are less efficient and have much poorer light quality.
They are also:-
a) Big b) Ugly as sin c) A disasterous throwback to the 70's
Can you even still buy them?
Steve
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On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 08:51:42 -0800, blackhead wrote:

SWMBO said, when it was time to put lights in a new ceiling after a fire, that she didn't want anything fancy. I wanted to play - so we have a compromise!
2off 2D 18W surface fittings in circular glass shades - 1 at each end of the long, narrow kitchen. Those are on 2-way switches so we can use them from both ends of the room.
2off LV halogens in downlighters in the ceiling over a small breakfast bar. Operated from an electronic transformer & dimmer.
8off LV halogens in downlighters in the ceiling, distributed above the rest of the work surfaces, including 2 over the sink (works very well!). These are spread over 2 more electronic transformers from a common dimmer. The 2 dimmers & a 2D light switch are all within easy reach of the breakfast bar so it's dead easy to change the whole mood of the lighting.
The halogens are all fed via a "flying saucer" style PIR in the centre of the room to give automatic switch-on & off.
In addition to that lot, there are another 6 low-wattage LV halogens under the cupboards over the main worktops down one side.
Most of the time the dimmers are switched off or kept quite low, being very good for making a brew first thing in the morning! SWMBO is quite happy with the 2Ds and the under-cupboard lights for most of the time. It's nice to just have the breakfast bar lit though.
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Mick (Working in a M$-free zone!)
Web: http://www.nascom.info http://mixpix.batcave.net
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wrote:

How well does that work Mick? What sort of time delay do you have them on? Have they ever turned off while you were actually in there and working?
All the best ..
T i m
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On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 22:25:48 +0000, T i m wrote:

It works very well, thanks. I had the same concern at first (especially as the ceiling is quite low), but I've not had any problem. The PIR has several settings:
There is about 2 secs fixed delay on switch-on. LUX = max brightness (>30) (I think I should probably have set this lower, but it works!) TIME1 = 3min TIME2 = 30min hold-on time after being triggered for TIME1 (IIRC!) METER = 6m range sensitivity
I've not had any accidental switch-offs so far. I was a bit worried about IR from the cooker preventing it from switching off, but that hasn't been a problem either.
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Mick (Working in a M$-free zone!)
Web: http://www.nascom.info http://mixpix.batcave.net
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wrote:

Excellent. ;-)
Thanks Mick,
All the best ..
T i m
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mick wrote:

Which PIR have you used?
I am wavering about filling my kitchen with halogens, but I might be able to square it with energy use if I include a PIR.
Chris
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Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK
snipped-for-privacy@cdixon.me.uk
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On Tue, 26 Feb 2008 10:44:12 +0000, Chris J Dixon wrote:

That's a very good question... :-) I can't see a maker's name anywhere on it, it was fitted over 4 years ago and it isn't shown on my original supplier's web site now. I've probably got the info somewhere, but it'll be in the "somewhere safe". :-(

It has to be better than without, doesn't it? :-)
I'm not sure about them now. They look *very* impressive, but if you are looking for a "working" kitchen then IMHO they are not really the way to go if you are also looking for efficiency. We seem to get as much, if not more, usable light from the 2off 2D fittings than we get from the main downlighters - but the under-cupboard lights are good (if rather bright - they are 20W halogens). OTOH a few halogens work very well with some flourescents as they help to "fill in" the colour spectrum.
My particular arrangement was done for a specific reason - a low ceiling. Normal tube types look stupid in there (we used to have some). The halogens look so much better, and the 2Ds don't look out of place. I haven't attempted to light the central floor area with halogens, just put the light where it is needed. That means that the 2Ds are pretty important for cleaning up, really.
--
Mick (Working in a M$-free zone!)
Web: http://www.nascom.info http://mixpix.batcave.net
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4X 35 GU10 halogen, with a dimmer and turned down to just glowing when I'm not in the kitchen.
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On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 08:51:42 -0800, blackhead wrote:

Our kitchen's a sort of L shape, and we have 4 * GU10 CFLs (7W or 9W each - I forget which) in a bar-type fitting over the worktops, hob & sink which are in the 'foot' of the L, and a single 20W CFL in a pendant in the less-used 'leg' part of the L. The GU10 types are infinitely better than 50W halogens in width of beam and colour (they're "warm white" and a lot nicer than the yellowish colour of halogens) but take forever to warm up, don't last particularly long and cost a lot. And when you replace them you're throwing away a bunch of electronics as well as the glass bit.
However the other day I saw some rather nice fluoro downlighters about 100mm dia (including flange) and 100mm depth, cost about £17 each, replacement lamps (glass only - electronics in the fitting) about £3-4. Masses of light output - I think they're about 10W. Just got to go and drill a hole in the ceiling while SWMBO's out, to see if I've got 100mm clearance to fit them before I buy any.
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John Stumbles

Procrastinate now!
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They look interesting, got a link to them!?
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On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 23:21:04 +0000, Sparks wrote:

fraind not. It was at GFE http://www.gfegroup.com but they don't seem to have individual products on their wibble.
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John Stumbles

I forgot to take my amnesia medecine again
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