Our washing machine (Bosch Maxx WFL 245S) is stopping a minute or two into the wash cycle.
Sequence is:
Ready light is on. Select wash temp. Press start.
Ready light goes off. Active light comes on.
Water pumped in. Drum spins a few times for a minute or two. Stops.
Active light off. Ready light on.
Selecting different temp makes no difference.
If I move it on to rinse or spin, that part of the cycle works fine.
Can anyone suggest what the likely fault / fix is?
Thanks in advance.
possibly blocked waste, or stalled, or broken pump motor.
Same fault we had and it was the heater unit which needed replacing.
Could be a failed heater element - the program waits for the water to reach temperature before continuing. If you can get to the heater terminals then a DC resistance check will confirm.
Could well be the heater but I would expect agitation of the wash to continue during the heating. I wonder if it is the water level sensor? The initial fill water gets soaked into the clothes on first few turns of the drum and then does not fill up any more for some reason? There is usually a small plastic vessel attached to the drum which can fill up with gunge. Bob
Haynes Washing Machine Manual by Graham Dixon:
Heater element not coming on. Most likely just dead: Or: the detector that detects it coming on is not working. Or the timer is not turning on to the setting that turns on the heater: a nudge would soon tell if this was the case. (Check electric meter: it should whizz round when the element cuts in.) Either because it is blown; a lead has fallen off or worn through (on ours the leads come very close to the drive belt and if a heavy load causes a jerk on starting the spin cycle, the belt can whip the lead off). In turn, if the lead has come off because the machine is thrashing about, the root cause could be one of the drum shock absorbers coming adrift. This was the sequence with us:
...SWMBO insists on putting bath mat in machine despite the enormous thump this causes when it goes on spin; shock of this snaps end of shock absorber strut, making the thump even worse; belt catches end of element pulling off leads. 'Fault' develops as yours. Muggins replaces wires more securely, without noticing broken strut. Get by for a while but not knowing that shock had also broken wire retainer inside drum that holds element down out of the way, so end of element now being rubbed away by drum. Next, trip out faults start and are eventually traced to element, which is replaced, but soon the trip outs begin again. Luckily a piece of rust is found in water filter which looks significant and turns out to be the end of the element retaining spring. Then, tipping machine on side to get a better look, exposes the fact that the damper strut is broken. Light at last dawns!
In the end I managed to make a much better element retainer from the screw end of the old element, and drill the outer drum to mount it. Then the second new element and a new strut are fitted. Problems solved. Then the cooker element started similar games...
Have fun: and do get the Haynes manual - for next to nothing second hand on Amazon, it is very handy at taking you logically through the fault tracing process.
SThanks for all the replies. Have just picked up the Washing Machine Manual from the local library so will get on to it next week.
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