Already had some advice from my friendly neighbourhood sparky Adam about
this, but wanted some more ideas.
Need to put some low voltage (12v) lights in a deck. 10 lights, each with 3
Lights and manifold/junction are IP66, wall wart needs to be inside though.
Easiest wiring option is a disused security light. Only other option would
be a right mission.
So, I'm thinking. I could run the cable from the unused light into an IP66
box like this http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMWPM02.html & plug in
the wall wart.
Only question - do you think the wall wart might overheat?
Dave - The Medway Handyman
Overheating: I would think it'll be OK in a box like that, unless, perhaps,
the box in in full sun. There's quite a bit of space to air cool the wart
via convection and plenty of surface area to lose the heat through.
Can you not drill a tiny hole right through the wall and extend the extra
low voltage flex inside to meet the wall wart at a convenient socket?
Or is making use of the security light power feed the only way?
The only tricky bit AFAICS is putting a 13A socket on the end of the
lighting circuit. People normally use 2A or 5A sockets for differentiation
purposes. That would be shafted if the wall-warts plug is built in though.
The one thing that could go wrong is that someone down the line thinks: "Hmm
13A socket, I'll run me welder off that...". Clear labelling as to the
circuit origin would be a must (ie: "This is fed by downstairs lights
breaker, max load 1A" or something...).
Wait for some more informed opinions...
I take it your proposed route would be up the wall to the ceiling level,
hence the bathroom?
Can you not go left or right and hit another room? Not intending to doubt
you, but thinking more of the occupant (including future ones) - a SELV
cable at 12V or whatever doing weird things is a lot less likely to turn
into an "issue" down the line.
What about diving in the corner of a window frame (a Sky dish installer
favourite) - sorry hard to comment without knowing the house in question.
The other thing I think would be worth mentioning, if you do go down this
route: I would regard it as essential that that circuit is backed by an
RCD - is the security light feed already covered by one?
Sooner or later, labels, or not, someone is going to try plugging a
radio/lawnmower or something else into this for use outside. And for those
sort of loads, they'll probably get away with it without tripping the
The risk is of course very tiny, but you probably wouldn't want to be
associated with it...
The up to the soffit, though the loft trick? Down the corner of a bedroom
wall in a neat bit of D-Line trunking.
Oh - in that case, use the box you mentioned and plug the little extension
lead plug into the IP66 socket. Technically you're not even touching the
fixed wiring then. User can unplug the lead if the need the socket for the
lawnmower. It's not unneat either. Sorry - maybe I missed the bit about the
Unless the wallmart is anything special you could repace it with a
transformer and a lightswitch in the IP66 box.
The wallmart should tell you on its label what voltage/power transformer to
replace it with.
Did try and point you in that direction Dave but it confused you....
As it happens though that range *was* IP rated, must be another one
that comes potted with tails.
By the way you say 12V and LED, guess you really want 12V D.C.
regulated, not an unregulated supply which would shorten life of LEDs
Previously linked PSU ticks that box but not the IP rated one but as
suggested perhaps incorporation into a IP rated enclosure.
Most wall warts will have a non resetting thermal fuse which means in
extreme overheat it will fail , but fail safe.
Just found this while looking at other stuff
# Four channel DC 12V - 800mA outputs
# AC 100 to 240V input - DC 12V output switched mode power supply
# Supplied with five cable grip pass-through IP66 rated cable glands
# Adjustable output voltage DC12 to 13.8V for long cable runs
# Wall mountable IP66 enclosure
Similar probably available elsewhere for less.
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