Hi,
As mentioned in my last post, am costing the final phases...
If I install celotex under the rafters and tape the joints, I assume I do not need vapour barrier PB?
I just noticed the price difference and it is not insignificant...
What the tape called that you tape celotext joints with?
Ta
Tim
its aluminium tape, with other names
NT
In article , Tim Watts writes
Correct, the PB is on the warm side of the insulation and the foil on the celotex and the foil tape provide the vapour barrier[1].
Foil tape (see [1]) :-)
[1] were you giggling with Jenkins in the back row when this was last discussed :-?In article , fred writes
ps: If you're on a budget and use taper edge board carefully there is no need to skim (just joint) so that's more money saved.
I did not bother, and the BCO was happy... The foil on the PIR should so the same job.
Aluminium [foil|sealing] tape... e.g:
Thanks fred.
Probably - sorry...
Anyway, even before I try the "seconds" place I went to last time, I now note that genuine celotex can be had from ebay in qtys of 10-50 sheets for extremely reasonable money (ie 1/3-1/2 the sheds price). Plasterboard too. Didn't realise PB (non vapour barrier) was so cheap!
So far I have £760 for 72m2 25mm celotext and 20m2 of 50mm.
Combined with what the roofers are putting will give 100mm (some will contain rafters at intervals) over all roof surfaces except 0.5-1m from teh eaves which will be 75mm due to lack of space. Being rought equivalent to 8" glass wool, I am looking forward to a severe reduction in heating bills!
Another £500-700 for 30m2 softwood PAR flooboards.
£266 for enough plasterboard to line everything. I may be cheap and not skim if I can scrim and fill decently...I also need to add some boarding for the 4 corner attic spaces (storage) and some random unknown amount of wood for panelling, attic access doors and stuff like that.
But the budget looks good - should manage a kitchen too and have enough left to finish the shower area and make a start on proper central heating. The plan is to get the upstairs clean and structurally complete so we can rescue lots of stuff from storage and kill that recurring bill. Also having a place to put stuff will clear out the kitchen (non kitchen stuff is living there) so I have room to fit the kitchen next year. The kitchen is structurally complete, plastered and wired (almost) so it really is only fitting cabinets, top, proper sink and a paintjob.
There almost seems to be light at the end of the tunnel at last!!
Yes - that's my plan. It's not a square room - it will have many many corners and "bumps". Otherwise, I think the plastering bill is likely to be getting on for 1k as it will be a real fiddly job.
How do you deal with external PB edges if trying to finish well enough for paint?
Get the slim plastic corner beads, and make sure you finish with a taper at both sides of the corner. Then you can fill level to the flat bit of the board and the corner bead.
Corner bead, slightly (marginally) proud then use jointing mix as per tapered joints but no tape. I used some galvanised wet plastering bead but a I believe there are neater beads avail for PB, B&Q have a reasonable range but check for bananas.
Well - I never knew about those - cheers John.
My first flat was an el-cheapo - paper taped joints and you could see the wrinkles even through the artex!
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