Hi all,
I have a kitchen in which there is virtually nowhere to site a regular radiator. I just wondered if it would be feasible to install underfloor heating, just where the floor is exposed. I'd like to avout the big upheaval of removing th floor cabinets and applicances if possible.
Of course, everything is possible, but has anyone ever seen this done?
Many thanks, Al
Strikes me that the biggest problem's likely to be the raising of the floor level.
Electric would be much thinner than wet, of course.
Have you considered adding kick space heaters under the existing units? (these are basically like fan assisted rads)
As it happens I was at my son's place when a mate of his was installing it. Up with the old tiles, cement based screed, insulation, adhesive, new tiles. Level ended up pretty much the same. The area of the panel he ordered wasn't quite big enough, but it was cut to an L shape, and stretched here and there. You can pretty much do anything you like with it as long as you don't damage the wire. Piece of cake to install-just an electric blanket essentially
Have you room for a plinth heater? I fitted one fed with microbore plastic and it works well. (I had doubts whether microbore would give enough flow but it does in this case.)
I'm onto my second in 25 years, They've never been on the high speed and are relatively quiet. The fan failed in the first one just before xmas about 5 years ago. New one easier to obtain in a hurry than spares! I might fix the old one some day.
going back to original question, I installed pipe only under exposed floor.It works OK.
Just needs more pipe or rather same pipe im a smaller area. It works OK.
BUT what sort of floor is i?
normally you have to lift the floor for UFH...
unless its suspended wood and you can work from below etc.
Ceiling radiators like they have in office blocks?
What sort of floor is it, wood suspended or concrete with tiles or whatever?
Brian
John Rumm wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@brightview.co.uk:
Yes. However I'm told they are inefficient and they do seem expensive, but yes, it is an option. Thanks,
Al
The Natural Philosopher wrote in news:l8g4el$82v$1 @news.albasani.net:
Concrete, with ceramic tiles.
Al
Who told you that? Mine works very nicely thank you very much. One running from you CH system will be cheaper to run but even an all electric one will be no more or no less efficient than any other heater.
They *are* expensive though and I would go with what another poster said about only running them at low speed to reduce noise (and possibly prolong fan life).
Tim
"Uncle Peter" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@red.lan:
I think what I may have to do is sacrifice a section of kitchen unit, so I can install a wall radiator - say, a quadruple-panel one (if such things exist), owing to the shortage of space... It's a rather cold kitchen, being an extension woth big windows, etc.
Al
"Brian Gaff" wrote in news:l8haue$irt$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
Concrete with thickish ceramic tiles. Al
Leave the door open to the hall? I never shut any of my internal doors (apart from if I'm trying to watch telly and a pet is making a noise), so it doesn't matter if one room has no or a broken radiator.
I also have wet kick space heating in the kitchen. They are not that expensive, under £200 and mine works very well. Also giving the bonus of a warm cupboard for plates when central heating is on.
Mike
Not quite sure how you would rate the efficiency - either they extract heat form the circulating water and put it into the room, or they don't
- either way none of it is actually wasted.
Tim+ wrote in news:191472749408901475.092471timdownie2003-nospampleaseyahoo.co.uk@news. eternal-september.org:
It was a British Gas central heating installer who told me that. I presume what he meant was that they are less efficient in terms of heat produced per , since some of that is being spent running the electric motor.
Al
"Uncle Peter" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@red.lan:
Unfortunately there is no radiator in the hall either! I had considered putting one in the hall but wasn't sure how well the heat would spread into the kitchen.
Al
Which eventually turns almost all the energy into heat due to friction or directly into heat via electrical losses. Even the noise it makes helps warm the air and walls up.
Unless the motor is mounted outside the space being heated, of course.
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