Under cabinet lighting - LV switching

[Andrew]

I am about to fit some LED under-cabinet kitchen lights. They will be switched from the main switch but I also want individual switches on each run.

Several suppliers offer systems where the switching is done on the low voltage side of the transformer so that the transformer is running continuously with no load.

This would be more convenient for installation but what do people think of the principle of switching lights off on the low voltage side of the transformer / driver?

[GB]

I had much the same issue, and, instead, used wifi switches - these ones:

Alexa allows you to control the lights together or separately.

Remote control is not *just* a gimmick! If I am doing some chopping, say, and want more light, I just ask Alexa, without having to stop what I am doing. Leaving the kitchen with a couple of mugs of coffee, I tell Alexa to turn the lights out, rather than having to put the mugs down to flip a switch.

[Steve Walker]

I have the door handles at elbow height and the lightswitches high enough that I can get my face down to them and push them with my chin - no need for remote control :)

[Brian Gaff (Sofa]

IS that not how most wall warts that power most of our stuff work?

Brian

[Andrew]

I had considered wall warts but reckoned they were either of the switch them on when you need them to charge the phone variety or the always on and always with a load like a router variety.

I had forgotten that a lot of LED (and for that matter 12v halogen) lights run from a wall wart but with a switch on the lamp itself.

Thanks for that. Feel happier now just wiring the driver in and putting a switch on the output.

Andrew