OK. So I didnt use the right rawlplug first time around and the screws/ plugs have pulled out the hole. Holes are big enough to put your finger in.
What should I do now (got correct plugs now)?
Fill the hole and then drill into this or fill it but move an inch or two along to a solid piece of wall?
First, what sort of wall construction is this? Is it plasterboard dry lining (ie, attached to brickwork or blocks, and therefore with solid material beneath) or is this a hollow stud partition?
There are different solutions depending on what you've got, but one thing for sure is that plasterboard on its own is way inadequate to support the weight of a TV, regardless of what rawlplugs you use (as I suspect you've discovered).
David
Yup. He's right. This is where you remove enough plasterboard to find something solid, attach some wood to it, and put the plasterboard back and re-skim and repaint..then think about mounting the bracket..
How deep do you have to go before you hit something solid like a brick wall behind the plaster board? If its only a couple of inches you fill the holes and the gap behind the holes and drill it out with a long enough drill to get a couple of inches in the solid wall behind.
If its a stud wall you need to fix to the studding not the plaster board. If the studding is in the wrong place you will have to fit new studding in the wall or put a sheet of wood on the wall and fixed to the studs either side.
On a large heavy plasma I ended up suspending the thing using threaded rood from the ceiling joists with the bracket screwed to the wall to stabilise the whole thing. It was a cr@p wall though as it was two sheets of plaster board with corrugated cardboard between.
Umm. Dunno. Seems to be plasterboard then a space then brick. Its an outside wall of a Barratt house (built in the last 10 years).
BTW. Its not a heavy TV. Its a 15" LCD.
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wibbled:
It's probably block, not brick behind the PB.
I hung some speakers up in a similar build flat years ago - they were probably about as heavy as your TV.
If you can find a "dab" where the plasterboard is fixed to the wall, mount the bracket on that and through into the blocks - that dab will be enough to prevent the plasterboard crushing when you do the screws up.
Allow an extra inch on the fixings to clear the PB and the gap. Frame fixings might also work quite well in this scenario but I've not tried.
If there isn't a convenient dab, I'd fall back to previous suggesstions about cutting the PB out and inserting wood - or perhaps glueing the PB back on solid PB adhesive which would achieve the same effect.
Cheers
Tim
Oh..usual trick then.
Stuff a page of the Daily Mail down the hole to support a great gob of car body filler which you will use to form a nice load bearing drillable entity. Paints well too..
That'll hang from plasterboard if you're hanging it *flush* to the wall because most of the load will be pulling-down on the plasterboard, but if you're using a tilt/swivel bracket or similar then the load will be pulling-out from the plasterboard and that is where plasterboard is weak.
Owain
Its a tilt/swivel.
If you've got blockwork behind, then why not just fasten to the blockwork? If you want to avoid cutting holes and making good to get battens in there, then how about long screws, oversized holes in the plasterboard and large diameter dowel in there as spacers (or a lot of washers!), so that the fixing is to the blockwork, but the screws tighten the plate up against the dowels and the dowels against the blockwork, so the plasterboard is not taking any of the load?
SteveW
An interesting point. I only know one MP personally. Looking at his lifestyle, I think he's reasonably clean as far as expenses go. If the next witch-hunt is about freebie jaunts around the world he might suffer a bit :-)
Apart from that, my information comes from the media. When they report on something I know about, the tendency is to get it consistently and grossly wrong. Or they focus obsessively on a minor aspect of the subject.
Anyway, that blog DOES read like saloon bar ranting or the Mirror on a bad day :-)
I know several, and I know one of the famous "spin doctors". Words like "clean" don't apply. Terms like "self-serving scumbags willing to lie throught their teeth to the electorate to further their selfish aims" do apply. The electorate should closely scrutinise their elected representatives. At present we dont. However even the most shallow investigation reveals things that should act as glaring great alarm bells. For example, a typical MP is as poor as a churchmouse before gaining office. Nowadays the most typical MPs work as parliamentary researchers, hack journalists, local authority clerks and local councillors before becoming MPs. All of these are low paid or unpaid "professions".
How then do MPs manage to live in the Mercedes driving, stockbroker belt life style on £64,000 a year? Houses in my local constituency are priced around the hald-million pound mark, upwards. The *average* price in the village where my MP lives is £1.1 million. Before election he really was a no-income nobody. So how did he manage to move shortly after election to a home in that village, complete with all the trimmings of a lifestyle more lavish than people on salaries of >£300,000 a year? Oh, and with an expensive London home as well?
A quick perusal of his expenses in the Telegraph gives a hint.
These individuals largely learn how to guzzle at the public trough as councillors who are supposedly volunteers but who trouser in excess of £70,000pa in expenses.
There are a few "decent" ones around, but I suspect that the electorate in general wouldn't like MPs like them. For example, Ms Widdecombe shows admirable fiscal restraint as does Mike Hancock from Portsmouth South. I can't see either of them fulfilling the electorate's desires for representation.
Ever considered drinking in a better class of pub?
My MP, before moving to Australia, was the outstanding Vince Cable. Rated
100% clean by the Telegraph. Also someone with a very impressive CV who gave up a very well paid job (chief economist of Shell Oil) to become an MP. But he's twice been passed over as party leader on the grounds that he's too old and not charismatic enough. If you want youthful charisma and no gravitas then I guess Dave is your next PM.
Sadly, I have to agree. I am a rare beast, a paid up member of the LimDems for more years than I wish to state, though I suffer from hip problems and would have had milk bottle glasses years ago, (to give my age away).
There have only been two politicians in the recent past that I have any regard for: Frank Field and Vince Cable. Both talk sense.
There are two that I despise: the grinning idiot and his successor. The successor has done much to ensure that we have strikes in the future as publically paid workers complain about endeavours to reduce their pensions due to the evil actions of Brown. The Idiot has destroyed pensions for the UK. "I think I'll sell gold at its lowest price". What a prat. Clueless is a word that comes to mind.
Shutting up Frank Field, as the grinning idiot did was destructive to resolving issues that need to be addressed. I hope (with low expectation) that Vince Cable could play a more major role.
Check out
Whatever you do, do it properly. Only a few weeks ago a young child died as a TV pulled out its mounting brackets and fell on her:-(
George
Depending on what sort of holes you are left with and how much space in the cavity there is, you could use some snaptoggles.
I have used these many times for larger items and kitchen units, nothing has ever gave way or collapsed, I agree attaching to a stud is the best way but not always possible and not everyone wants to rip off their plasterboard etc.
So so for a BM5 Toggler, Snaptoggle, drill the hole to 13mm and put in place, secure with an M5 Machine screw.
These are fine for most applications
obviously American?
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