towerstat rf turning off before set temp reached

[Julie Emery]

Hi

I wonder if anybody can help me? I have had a towerstat rf transmitter and receiver on a potterton combi boiler for past 4 years. I've never had a problem before, then a few months ago I noticed that the heating is switching off before reaching the set desired temperature.The fan symbol, however stays on.

I have changed the batteries, and still I am having the same problem. After reading through the manual, it states that if someone in the next house has the same transmitter/receiver, this can interfere with/control mine,however I do not believe my only neighbour has this.

Could a wireless router interfere with the RF signals being sent between the transmitter/receiver?, although I have had a router for years and not had a problem previously.

The red led light on the receiver never turns to green, even when the heating is actually on, and I have read that it should be green?

I also thought that there may be a problem with a discrepancy between the dip switches in the receiver and transmitter, thereby making the temp switch off before reaching the set temp,however the fan symbol stays on beyond the heating going off....

If anyone has any bright ideas as to what is causing this problem, could you please reply to this post, I would be very grateful for any advice at this stage.

[Bob Minchin]

The RF frequency used by your stat is radically different from that used by your router so possibly not a culprit. Skimming through the manual I see there is a 'Span' function which it the difference between the on and off temperatures - have you maybe accidentally alter this setting? It does look as if you should see some green led activity. The manual says that if the green does not come on then you have insufficient signal. Have you moved anything in the house (mainly large and metallic) after which you had the problem? Like a filing cabinet, metal framed furniture or a fridge/cooker/dish washer etc.

Just a few thoughts

Good Luck

Bob

[tony sayer]

In article , Julie Emery scribeth thus

AFAIR these units work in the 434 MHz band which is a long way removed from wi-fi and wireless routers etc which almost without exception at in the 2.4Ghz band. A few use the 5 Ghz allocation tho these are quite rare.

I would imagine that the unit is faulty if no one else at all is using it, 434 MHz that is, and there should be differing codes for these units as they can and do get used in close proximity to each other..

It might be that its being interfered with a TETRA system which uses 395 odd these can put out strong signals which will cause a problem for lo power devices like these.

Have any or are there any mobile phone towers close by?.

However I'd put money on a duff unit tho its hard to say which unit is at fault....

[The Natural Philosopher]

Then you have a problem.

I would suggest proceeding as if it were freshly installed. Fit new batteries to the sender if its battery powered, and follow instructions on how to set it up and test it, and if it still don't work replace it all.

[Dave Liquorice]

Not likely. Have you bought (or your neighbour(s) bought) any other wireless/cordless stuff recently? Sockets or lights that you can switch on/off or dim remotely. Alarm system?

Though from what others have said it looks like a weak signal move the stat nearer the receiver and see if you can get a green light.

[brass monkey]

I can't say for certain but I believe that my Worcester Digistat notes the rise-rate and extrapolates. It then guesses when it can remove the call for heat leaving the residual rad heat to reach set-point. Does your temp actually reach the set-point?

[alan]

There is red AND green light on my Towerstat receiver, mounted one above the other with no gap between the two lights.

The red light is ALWAYS on if there is mains power to the receiver/boiler and the green light comes on when the boiler is providing heat. From a distance the green light may be hard to see as the red light dominates.

There may be a lag of around 30/60 seconds between the "fan" symbol on the thermostat coming on and the boiler firing up, and then the green light turns on. It's the boiler firing that causes the green light to come on, not necessary the "fan" symbol on the thermostat.

Why not dismount the transmitter and take it to the receiver to see if the green light comes on with a distance of a few feet between transmitter and receiver?

The thermostat may still be calling for heat but the boiler has been turned off by its own timer control.

[Muddymike]

Is the pump still running? If so the boiler thermostat could be turning just the boiler off.

Mike

[Jim K]

I doubt that, the green light on the receiver merely signifies "the call for heat" by the thermostat (and proves the wireless link is working). It does NOT mean that the boiler is running....merely it has been "called to run"

in most usual set ups that would also mean that the red led on the receiver would be off, assuming the receiver is wired "normally" into the wiring centre of the heating system...

OP - do all the leds on the receiver go OFF when the heating is usually OFF?

Jim K

[The Natural Philosopher]

would be off, assuming the receiver is wired "normally" into the wiring centre of the heating system...

they do on mine. But there is no standard.

red indicates fault. flashing red indicates another fault. green indicates call for heat. and mine aint te same as the OPs./

[Jim K]

wot I said

mmm - how wonderfully irrelevant then...

Jim K

[geoff]

In message , Julie Emery writes

You're on diybanter, you're beyond help