What exactly is wrong with a single pole switch ? The earth is hard connected to the neutral back at the consumer unit anyway and so the casing is still connected. Either the regs should demand a 3P switch/removable plug or allow single pole switches for fixed appliances.
I agree with you, as far as i am aware the UK ( possibly Australia ) is the only country to have fused 13A plug tops on a 32A ring. If i did a self build etc i would have each room on its own 20A radial ( kitchem 32A ring). in the event of a fault makes tracing it easier, easy life !
Just to confirm that - note table 6F (OSG) or 4D5A. Even under installation method 6 (in conduit in insulation) 2.5mm cable is rated at
20A. Of course, if you're going to stuff it into the conduit with half a dozen other circuits, or run it next to the heating pipes then you might need to think again :-)
Oh yes, and don't forget the derating for rewireable fuses... in this case according to my calculations even a 15A fuse is pushing it, but we're talking about MCBs here presumably.
All the major additions I have done to our wiring have been radials. I've kept the two existing rings but our studies (full of computers etc.) have their own 20 amp radials, as does the utility room.
Umm... can you enlighten me why Pirelli cable should be so much better rated than ordinary? The only thing I can think of is that you are referring to MICS cable...?
Really, is that right? I was under the impression that having RCD protection was for added general safety in the home, is that not right? Are you saying that, for example, in a non-ground-floor flat (where there is a zero likelihood of using portable equipment outdoors) it is pointless spending the extra on installing an RCD-protected consumer unit?
On 21 May 2004 11:55:30 -0700, in uk.d-i-y snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (Lobster) strung together this:
Yep, certainly is.
No, and yes. An RCD does offer additional safety but isn't required unless you're likely to be running power outdoors from the sockets in question. Obviously in the case of a shower it is highly unlikely that it will somehow become 'portable' and 'outdoors'!
Well, not pointless as such, it does offer additional protection, a common misconception, held by quite a few electricians too! An RCD isn't 'required' in such circumstances. At my house I have some of the downstairs sockets on an RCD but as most of the outside has a socket conveniently located somewhere nearby it's not really neccesary.
On Fri, 21 May 2004 20:19:11 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "G&M" strung together this:
You can't, you must be looking at it wrong. Fan switches are for L, Switched L, and N. The E is meant to be continuous throughout, with no switches. Have another good look at your switch.
"G&M wrote | > Then why can you buy 3 pole switches with one pole marked "E" ? | Decided to check myself and these are used for fan isolation. | Quite why these are OK to switch the earth is another mystery | of course.
Fan isolators are 3 pole because they switch - permanent live - switched live / trigger - neutral
on fans that have a timer over-run trigged from the lightswitch.
They should *not* switch the earth, and I don't know why one pole is labelled E. It's extremely misleading and irresponsible IMHO.
Well that's identified that the switch I have *isn't* a fan switch.
WTF it is though I'm not sure but having just checked with a meter it definitely switches the connection from E to Eload as well as L to Lload and N to Nload. It's a standard looking switch with no neon, front lead connection or fuse. Any suggestions ? (other than bin it :-)
Looks like a standard MKS 'clone' and I don't tend to buy electrical fittings while abroad. But it might have come from some strip-out or other. Unless there's a gallery of horrors somewhere I think this goes in the bin in case somebody uses it.
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