Tiling on top of Emulsion

Hi,

Another question.

I am thinking of tiling the pantry in my house. Currently it has been painted with Emulsion.

When I spoke to a builder about this he said the adhesive would not stick to well on the emulsion as it is too shiny and smooth.

He said that I could apply a coat of PVA to the walls to help adhesion. Or I could take the paint off.

So my question is. Would the PVA work or would I have to remove the paint.

If I had to remove the paint how could I do that. I am thinking I may be able to do it with an eletric sander, but is there a better way?

Many Thanks

Bhupesh

Reply to
bp
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I should take the paint off. The adhesive may soften it and you could end up having all the tiles fall off - the emulsion may be on old limewash, or anything. A scraper might be nicer than a sander. You may have to scrub off old water based stuff. If you PVA it, use dilute PVA, and tile straight over before it dries.

Reply to
Chris Bacon

Just to hijack this thread a bit.

A teacher wants to paint a glass panel in a door, to prevent the sun from over heating a classroom. Does this tile over it while wet, still apply to what I would think was a water based paint , that the teacher wants to use on her door window?

Reason I ask, is that when I tried to clean the window for her, prior to her painting it, I had lots of problems getting down to the glass. Just as if the window had been covered with some silicon something. Nothing would stick to it.

Dave

Reply to
Dave

OK....

I had to read that about 10 times, I *think* I understand....

Then I shouldn't think PVA will. Try some cellulose thinners on the glass.

Couldn't she Blu-tack a picture over it? Hang a curtain on a springy thing that I forget the name of at the mo.? Like a bit of bicycle brake cable?

Reply to
Chris Bacon

be able to do it with an eletric sander, but is there a better way?

The easiest way is; mix up some wallpaper paste to a thick mix, paint it onto the emulsion, wait 1/2 an hour, and the emulsion will peel off with a scraper (although it might need a longer time; it depends on the thickness of the emulsion) HTH

Reply to
Mr Fuxit

Get a 2ft piece of 2"x1" wood, hammer 2" nails along the lenght of the wood, screw 2ft piece of wood to another lenght of wood at the end. Then use this to score the wall all over remove any loose paint and debris.

Reply to
ben

PVA will help the tile cement stick to the paint, but it won't help the paint stick to the wall, so I'd be inclined to take the paint off.

A good sander with a coarse abrasive will do it (but probably not quickly) - if it's a plastic-based emulsion then heat gun and scraper might be better, if it's limewash/distemper then scraping or a wire brush.

Reply to
Rob Morley

This glass panel is almost certainly there to stop people from opening the door and banging into people and injuring them. It is i'm pretty sure a legal requirement to have such glass panels in schools & Uni's & such. Probably in offices too.

Reply to
zikkimalambo

I'd say if it comes off easily, take it off. If not, tile over it. Tile adhesive shouldn't need pva and you'll soon see if it isn't sticking properly

Reply to
Stuart Noble

Part of the fire regulations I believe.

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Reply to
DJC

Just get some solar reflecting film to apply to the glass.

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've installed some on the velux in my attic room and it has made a noticeable difference.

Rob

Reply to
Rob Summers

Part K5, doesn't apply to lifts and houses (but would apply to shops, schools, offices, factories...)

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a. doors and gates on main traffic routes and those which can be pushed open from either side should have vision panels unless they are low enough to see over.

Now we can just argue if a classroom door is a main traffic route. Personally, I would think so, but don't know the official score.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

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The doors on the toilets in our office don't have these!

Reply to
Richard Conway

Not even the stalls?

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Not even.

Reply to
Richard Conway

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