Tiling on top of Emulsion

Sep 12, 2005 14 Replies

Hi,



Another question.



I am thinking of tiling the pantry in my house. Currently it has been painted with Emulsion.



When I spoke to a builder about this he said the adhesive would not stick to well on the emulsion as it is too shiny and smooth.



He said that I could apply a coat of PVA to the walls to help adhesion. Or I could take the paint off.



So my question is. Would the PVA work or would I have to remove the paint.



If I had to remove the paint how could I do that. I am thinking I may be able to do it with an eletric sander, but is there a better way?



Many Thanks



Bhupesh



I should take the paint off. The adhesive may soften it and you could end up having all the tiles fall off - the emulsion may be on old limewash, or anything. A scraper might be nicer than a sander. You may have to scrub off old water based stuff. If you PVA it, use dilute PVA, and tile straight over before it dries.

Just to hijack this thread a bit.

A teacher wants to paint a glass panel in a door, to prevent the sun from over heating a classroom. Does this tile over it while wet, still apply to what I would think was a water based paint , that the teacher wants to use on her door window?

Reason I ask, is that when I tried to clean the window for her, prior to her painting it, I had lots of problems getting down to the glass. Just as if the window had been covered with some silicon something. Nothing would stick to it.

Dave

OK....

I had to read that about 10 times, I *think* I understand....

Then I shouldn't think PVA will. Try some cellulose thinners on the glass.

Couldn't she Blu-tack a picture over it? Hang a curtain on a springy thing that I forget the name of at the mo.? Like a bit of bicycle brake cable?

be able to do it with an eletric sander, but is there a better way?

The easiest way is; mix up some wallpaper paste to a thick mix, paint it onto the emulsion, wait 1/2 an hour, and the emulsion will peel off with a scraper (although it might need a longer time; it depends on the thickness of the emulsion) HTH

Get a 2ft piece of 2"x1" wood, hammer 2" nails along the lenght of the wood, screw 2ft piece of wood to another lenght of wood at the end. Then use this to score the wall all over remove any loose paint and debris.

PVA will help the tile cement stick to the paint, but it won't help the paint stick to the wall, so I'd be inclined to take the paint off.

A good sander with a coarse abrasive will do it (but probably not quickly) - if it's a plastic-based emulsion then heat gun and scraper might be better, if it's limewash/distemper then scraping or a wire brush.

This glass panel is almost certainly there to stop people from opening the door and banging into people and injuring them. It is i'm pretty sure a legal requirement to have such glass panels in schools & Uni's & such. Probably in offices too.

I'd say if it comes off easily, take it off. If not, tile over it. Tile adhesive shouldn't need pva and you'll soon see if it isn't sticking properly

Part of the fire regulations I believe.

>

Just get some solar reflecting film to apply to the glass.

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've installed some on the velux in my attic room and it has made a noticeable difference.

Rob

Part K5, doesn't apply to lifts and houses (but would apply to shops, schools, offices, factories...)

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a. doors and gates on main traffic routes and those which can be pushed open from either side should have vision panels unless they are low enough to see over.

Now we can just argue if a classroom door is a main traffic route. Personally, I would think so, but don't know the official score.

Christian.

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The doors on the toilets in our office don't have these!

Not even the stalls?

Christian.

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