tile grouting - technique ?

[sm_jamieson]

Most of the rounded edge tiles you get now do not have any glaze down the s= ides of the tile, and the glaze ends on the tapered section. So the grout c= annot be much below the surface of the tile in order to properly cover the = biscuit. So you have to decide how much to recess the grout when trying to = get an even grout line. Since the grout edges are on a fairly shallow angle, a very slight differen= ce in grout depth causes a large difference in the width of the grout line. This also means the tiles have to be very close together if you want a narr= ow grout line.

How shallow do most folks try to recess the grout ? As near to the surface = level as possible ? As far down as possible just hiding the biscuit ? Do you use the grout float to recess the line by pushing the grout in hard,= such that the rubbery float presses just below the surface ? Or use the sponge to take off a small amount of grout to the lines are even= ? Or pass a suitable sized dowel over the joints to keep them consistent ?

I grouted up a test panel. I had the grout like a very thick cream, slightly fudgey - about perfect I = would think. After pulling the float over the filled grout lines to compres= s the grout and level off, I found the edges were starting to dry quickly a= nd becoming uneven. At this point should I have dipped the float in water or started using the = sponge ?=20 In the end I wiped a damp sponge over the tiles pressing lightly, and this = had the effect of evening out the grout lines quite a bit. The result was a fairly even grout line but slightly wider and less recesse= d than I had intended, creating a slightly wavy grout line. If I had tried = to take off much more grout, the biscuit would be in danger of being expose= d.

The wiki says: "Use the rubbed edge at 45 degrees to the grout lines to get a good final g= rout shape". I'm quite sure what this means.

Can anyone who has done a lot of grouting comment about these aspects ? - i= t seems as with lots of jobs, the details is what matters. And it helps if = you are sure about the "procedure". And when you don't do these jobs a lot,= you cannot build up the amount of experience a tradesman would have !

Cheers, Simon.

[stuart noble]

On 100mm tiles I found the rounded end of a glass cutter to be the perfect tool

[sm_jamieson]

The only problem with using a rounded tool is that you end up with a radius on the grout. I suppose you could form a tool to give the grout profile you need. In my next practice run (another test panel for the missus !) I will try a pointing technique after filling the joints, using a rounded tool, whereby if a bit more grout is needed, load up the tool and point it in ...

Simon.

[Tim Watts]

I float it level (emphasis on ramming it in the joint) then sponge it back about a mm.

Did you use a tiler's sponge? They are large, fine pored and fairly even which helps to avoid randomness.

I worked the float then the sponge on each m2 approx. This was only a rough sponge to take off trhe excess and cut back. Final cleanup and polish I did after a few m2 so I was sponging against mostly firm grout - if you time it right, you can still shave a fraction off but at the same time you can clean the surface liberally without washing the lines out totally.

It's going to vary a lot depending on make of grout, temperature, substrate suction and possibly other factors.

[sm_jamieson]

I used this, only the yellow side:

[The Medway Handyman]

the grout. I suppose you could form a tool to give the grout profile you need.

pointing technique after filling the joints, using a rounded tool, whereby if a bit more grout is needed, load up the tool and point it in ...

[sm_jamieson]

on the grout. I suppose you could form a tool to give the grout profile you need.

pointing technique after filling the joints, using a rounded tool, whereby if a bit more grout is needed, load up the tool and point it in ...

Is this as flexible as the fugi tools, or is it more of a rigid plastic ? Simon.

[The Medway Handyman]

on the grout. I suppose you could form a tool to give the grout profile you need.

pointing technique after filling the joints, using a rounded tool, whereby if a bit more grout is needed, load up the tool and point it in ...

AFAIK - I don't have one, it's the same as a fugi. They do another one, which I do have

[John Rumm]

No need to wet the float - save any wetting for the sponging...

It means that particular wiki article is very new and needs lots of work!

(I expect it was supposed to say "use the *rubber* edge [of the grout float] at an angle")

Well my approach is as follows:

I mix a fairly sloppy grout - not quite wet enough to run down the float

- perhaps softly whipped cream. Using a rubber faced grouting float held at a shallow angle, I will use it to wipe grout into all the gaps, working from several angles to make sure each line is filled. I will often apply side to side, then work in up and down for example.

Grout float angles are worth discussing - there are two that matter: the angle to the perpendicular surface, and the rotation relative to the grout lines. You need some lift on the leading side of the float to be able to slide over the wall and force the grout into the gaps. Too shallow and the float will stick to the surface, too steep (more than about 40 degree IME) and you will tend to leave a rough finish to the grout especially as it begins to harden. The rotation angle is less critical, however you want to avoid it matching the the grout lines such that the end of the float drops into a line when crossing it. (some piccies for the wiki will probably help here).

Once all the lines are filled, I use the float to squeegy most of the excess grout off the faces of the tiles. I then leave that section for a few mins to begin hardening. I then use a grout sponge that I have rinsed out and squeezed fairly dry to "rub up" the grout. Using it flat against the wall, in a circular motion, working back and forth as I progress down. The amount of pressure applied here will set the grout depth. Stop to rinse the sponge frequently so that you are clearing the excess grout and not just spreading it about the place.

After leaving longer to dry dome more I will touch in any faults, and possibly responge if not happy with the finish.

Then I leave it to dry. Give it a damp sponge over the once to clean any surface marks and let it dry again. After that a dry polish with a paper towel to remove the fine white film from the tile surface (washing at this stage just turns into a never ending game of creating a new film to wash off next time!)