Things I have learnt this week: Low expansion foam

Hi,

Part of a new mini series :)

The other day I needed to fix some celotex in place in a rather fiddly location (bay window ceiling retrofit) so it wasn't possible to make it all a snug fit.

Tried some of the Siroflex PU drywall adhesive

formatting link
it seemed to be pretty suited to the job:

formatting link
very sticky, expands relatively little (perhaps x2).

The conduit are drops for any future lighting in that area.

Now I'm off to B&Q to see if I can rig a bit of metal tube and plastic pipe to make a nozzel extension for my foam gun - that upside down work was fiddly and I did get as much foam on me as on the board!

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim S
Loading thread data ...

Glad you posted that - I'm starting to think about insulating the walls too - any Celotex or similar information is always welcome!

Reply to
lardconcepts

You actually get a much better fit, and seal, between Celotex and rafters/joists if you cut it slightly undersize, hold in place with pins or similar, then foam it in. I did this recently for a stud wall built out from a single-skin brick exterior wall, using window/door sealing foam (the low expansion, waterproof stuff that window fitters use when replacing windows with plastic excrescences). Not only was the result vapour-tight, but also very strong - you could lean on the Celotex panels, and they weren't going anywhere. Possibly a bit uneconomical if you have a lot to do, though a little foam goes a long way, in this application. If you *do* have a lot to do, consider buying one of those cleanable foam guns that screw into the top of the foam cartridge. Soon pays for itself in the number of blocked, part- used aerosol cans that you are no longer throwing away ;-)

Regards Richard

Reply to
geraldthehamster

lardconcepts wibbled:

Glad my senile wibblings are occasionally useful :)

I used BallyTherm - got it from a mate of the bloke John Rumm recommended in Essex at a very reasonable price. Pays to shop around for that stuff - do not buy from a builder's merchant unless you have thumbscrews!

"2nd grade" is worth seeking - it's a bit dinted, perhaps reclaimed excess from a bigger building job or just slightly out of spec. In practice I have found little of consequence wrong with my batch, especially as for many domestic jobs you are cutting it down so dinted edges are easily lost.

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim S

geraldthehamster wibbled:

I have come to that same conclusion - especially for fiddly fits where there's wood everywhere, rather than nice parallel rafter runs. Makes less mess too as you are not perpetually rubbing the sides off stuffing it in.

Yes I have a gun and I agree totally. I do wish though that they'd make one with a proper screw on flexy extension nozzle though. Pratting around with bits of plastic tube that fall off and spray foam everywhere is a bit painful. I also picked up the trick here of not cleaning it out but leaving the can attached if doing a run of work. Doesn;t seem to do any harm and saves gallons of cleaner.

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim S

Tim S wibbled:

BTW - I found (also a tip from here) that a bread knife makes less mess when cutting it - use the wibbly blade, not the sawtooth version.

I haven't found the dust to be too bad on me in small doses, but it's allegedly a mechanical irritant so a mask or avoidence to breathing it is advisable.

I find it more of a problem on my eyes - like getting sand in them.

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim S

Sounds good, I want to get the solid walls in our house insulated soon.

Reply to
David

How about, 1/4" rubber hose as used for a manometer, clamped on the end with a small jubilee clip? A plumbers merchant will have the hose.

Yup, tis what I do. Just scrape the nozzle clean and you are ready to go.

Reply to
John Rumm

On the inside or the outside? I am looking at doing the latter here.

Reply to
John Rumm

That's what it said to do, on the destructions that came with mine. Just screw the regulator valve shut. If no air can get to it, bringing moisture, then it's not going to go off.

I would recommend the low expansion closed cell foam, though, for this application, rather than the less controllable stuff used, apocryphally, for destroying canoes ;-)

Regards Richard

Reply to
geraldthehamster

T24gMTIgQXVnLCAxMzo1MywgSm9obiBSdW1tIDxzZWUubXkuc2lnbmF0Li4uQG5vd2hlcmUubnVs bD4gd3JvdGU6Cj4gRGF2aWQgd3JvdGU6Cj4gPiBTb3VuZHMgZ29vZCwgSSB3YW50IHRvIGdldCB0 aGUgc29saWQgd2FsbHMgaW4gb3VyIGhvdXNlIGluc3VsYXRlZCBzb29uLgo+Cj4gT24gdGhlIGlu c2lkZSBvciB0aGUgb3V0c2lkZT8gSSBhbSBsb29raW5nIGF0IGRvaW5nIHRoZSBsYXR0ZXIgaGVy ZS4KPgo+IC0tCj4gQ2hlZXJzLAo+Cj4gSm9obi4KPgo+IC89PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PVwKPiB8IKAgoCCgIKAg oEludGVybm9kZSBMdGQgLSCgaHR0cDovL3d3dy5pbnRlcm5vZGUuY28udWugIKAgoCCgIKAgoHwK PiB8LS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0tLS0t LS0tLS0tLS0tLS18Cj4gfCCgIKAgoCCgSm9obiBSdW1tIC0gam9obihhdClpbnRlcm5vZGUoZG90 KWNvKGRvdCl1ayCgIKAgoCCgIKAgoCCgfAo+IFw9PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PS8KCk5vdCBzdXJlIHRvIGJlIGhv bmVzdCwgbW9zdCBsaWtlbHkgdGhlIG91dHNpZGUgYXMgdGhlIGluc2lkZSBpcwpkZWNvcmF0ZWQu CgoKCg==

Reply to
David

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.