as a sawboard guide,can anyone thats made one see the flaw in the design?
All will be revealed later to see if anyone can guess were the SB failed.
Looks OK to me. I generally use a similar system with a circular saw, clamping a straight piece of material to the surface to be cut.
I can only guess that you lost depth of cut by making the base too thick or the guide too high.
I make mine from 3mm ply for the base, so my 165mm saw's depth of cut drops from 52mm to 49mm - still enough for worktops or 6 x 2 timber.
I use 6mm ply for the guide which fits neatly under the body of the saw, so I don't have to adjust the depth of cut to allow clearance.
Mine are about a foot wide so I have plenty of clamp area. I rarely cut anything without using a sawboard.
Well that method of making them is a bit iffy..
Mine is twice as wide and has the strip down the middle.. one side is for 90 degree cuts and the other for 45 degree cuts.
If you don't make it wide enough you can get the saw stuck on the clamps.
The other thing you need is a couple of bits of wood so you can clamp narrow bits by screwing through the saw board into the bits of wood pulling them against the job and holding it in place.
User error
-- Love is a human right
The obvious problem is clamping the laminate to the sawboard (or should that be the other way round?) in such a way as to allow the saw to work. Or even having nowhere suitable for using a sawboard as long as a full length of laminate.
Another possibility is that you used a guide which had one straight side
- and fixed it the wrong way round.
Or the guide was too thick for the saw used.
Or you made the sawboard with one saw and tried to use it with another.
Or you cut the sawboard with the blade at an angle.
I followed the description on that page when I made one - and it was fine. So looks as if SB might be the right description - if I couldn't screw it up...
How long were the bits of laminate, and the sawboard? Did the sawboard flex in the middle (if only clamped at the ends? Were you able to get a good working position leaning across the worktop? Not sure I'd trust spring clamps when clamping to a smooth (slippery) laminate surface. David.
I've come unstuck getting the bloody saw past the bloody clamps!
Is it the motor body that fouls the clamps? I have had a similar problem in the past, I hunted for a pair of clamps that had a low profile. My problem was solved. Or is the saw guide too thick?
Dave
You only need to make the sawboard wider - I use 'F' clamps handle upwards.
My sawboard comprises of a piece of 3mm ply for the base and 6mm ply for the guide. The guide part is approx 10" wide, more than enough room for the motor body to clear the clamps.
Motor body
It's not a problem now I'm aware of the problem ;-)
Come on then, reveal all - its like waiting for the other shoe to drop....
How can a straightedge and a couple of clamps be that complicated? Who gives a flying f*ck why it didn't work for somebody somewhere?
Ok,was going to post a modified version of the clampless SB.
I don't give a flying f*ck now.
ps you didnt have to post your silly comment but the child in you got the better.
Your base is wider so...what if you want to cut a piece of wood/laminate thats considerably smaller in width than the base?,could you not see the problem? ie you have to prop the base up at the back because when you clamp the work down it becomes unbalanced without proping it underneath.
Well some of us are interested in learning from other people - so thanks for f...ing that up for us!
If the quiz master had anything useful to say, I guess he would have done so by now.
Useful! believe me this has enhanced the SB on and off the workmate even without the use of G and F clamps. :-P
And you're saving it for The Dragons' Den?
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