Table top update

Update of the table top, I am quite pleased with how it has turned out so far considering I hadnt a clue what I was doing. The (bed) slats are just laying on top for the moment and will need proper spacing. I am planning on 1/8 - 1/4 inch gap between slats. Should I leave a gap at the edges of the slats (end grain) where they adjoin the outer frame or have a neat/tight fit, thinking for expansion & contraction. Next stage is to make a frame /legs, I did want 3 legs but have opted for 4 after considering my options as per previous posters.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h194/scudo/table%201_zpss2v0uycw.jpg
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On 21/07/2016 15:45, ss wrote:

Thermal expansion at that length will be negligible. Most wood movement occurs across the grain not along it. So allow for the slats to get wider and narrower - no need to worry about them getting much longer.
So you would normally fix each slat only once at each end in the middle - that will allow the two edges to grow and shrink.
3/16 to a 1/4 inch gape between the slats would probably look ok, and allow water to drain.

That's looking good so far ;-)
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Cheers,

John.
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On 21/07/2016 18:44, John Rumm wrote:

I have some 2x3 and also 2x2 inch for the legs. I would prefer to use 2x2 but would this be too thin and likely to warp. I am thinking that the 2x3 will look too `chunky` for the size of the table. The height of the table will be under 30 inches.
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On 22/07/2016 09:19, ss wrote:

2x2 will be more than good enough if you design the legs well enough. Some tables / chairs etc work with amazingly thin cross section timbers (look at a traditional Windsor chair or a Maloof rocker for example).
What kind of base are you aiming for? Do you want completely "free" legs, or are you happy to have some stretchers to tie them together lower down?
The design of the top, could look niece with a pedestal design base - i.e. a single down member that then splays out to a foot at the bottom.
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John.
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On 22/07/2016 11:22, John Rumm wrote:

I am ok with stretchers. I do like the idea of a pedestal design and I have a piece of 4 x 4 that could be used for that but unsure how to splay out the `feet`
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On 22/07/2016 11:52, ss wrote:

Use some of your 3x2...
Mortice and tennon (or bridal joint) 4 bits of that into the base of the post. Have the wider dimension vertical, with one inch of it below the end of the post:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:PedestalTableBase.png
Or for an easy joint without complicated joinery:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:PedestalTableBaseEasyLeg.png
Then (or before assembly) trim the tops and bottoms of the 3x2s at an angle, leave a bit of a "foot" at the far end, and knock off the top corner, to give them what appears to be a leg with a slight down angle (i.e. you have just "freed" the shape from inside the original 3x2):
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:PedestalTableLegCut.png
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:PedestalTableBaseSplay.png
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John.
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On 22/07/2016 12:33, John Rumm wrote:

Thanks for your help with this.
OK slowly getting there. I dont favour the simple joint as it looks to simplistic so might have a go with the bridal joint, I am assuming that using this the `feet` would be slotted in from the bottom of the pillar.
Hoping I am going in the right direction would my option be B or C. How far would I take the joint in to the 4 x 4 post (2 inches?)
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h194/scudo/Joint_zpsgwwro17p.jpg
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On 22/07/2016 17:11, ss wrote:

Yup... I think if doing the bridal joint, I would make the legs from two lengths of 3x2 (i.e. to pairs of opposing legs from each bit). Then make a half lap joint for the intersection of those. That will create a cruciform base, which you can then fit the end of the post over with a pair of perpendicular bridal joints cut in it.

If you do:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:PedestalTableBridalJoints.png
the the legs pass right though. You can glue it up, and also stick a long screw up through the underside of the base and into the end of the post.
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John.
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On 22/07/2016 20:18, John Rumm wrote:

OK thanks, that last diagram makes it clearer for me and, dooable for my skills (hoping).
thanks
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