I bought the "accurate table saw" book that as recommended and I know I will disappoint you but I bought the B&Q table saw! My excuse was it was just eighty-odd pounds whereas everything else started at one hundred and twenty. I didn't want to spend a lot testing the water.
I'm not sure whether to take back the saw and pay more money though. As you know, I wanted to build a chipboard cupboard, including a section at 45 degrees. I was hoping the table saw would help get straighter lines than using a circular saw.
The problem with the B&Q saw is that although it has two table extensions (one either side) the groove that the fence sits in, only runs along to main part of the table, not along these extensions. This means that you can only use the fence for cuts up to about 6 inches wide!
Looking at the photos on the Screwfix web site, it seems the Titan and Ryobi models, and the Clark at Machine mart, allow the fence to be positioned at any point along the extensions. My dilemma is should I pay more for a saw that allows me to put the fence anywhere or should I save some money and just buy a clamp and a piece of wood/metal to make my own fence?
The Ryobi photo looks as though a router can be fitted to the table. I'm sure it's probably better to have a separate router table, but since I don't have one, I wonder whether that would be useful until I do?
The Clark one I think has the largest table of them all; perhaps I should buy it because of that? It also seems to have a handle at the side for locking the blade angle, whereas all others have it on the front. Is this easier to use or does it make no difference?
In reply to one of my earlier posts, someone kindly pointed out that I needed a 22.5 degree cut if I wanted a section at 45 degrees. Thanks for that, it saved me from embarrassment later. However, do any saws have 22.5 degrees marked? I have looked at a few display models but none seem to have 22.5 marked. I'm surprised as I thought this would be a commonly used angle (after 45 and 90).
Looking near the end of the accurate table saw book, it talks about cutting rebates into wood. I must confess I have not read that chapter thoroughly yet. Do any saws come with height gauges because the ones I have seen so far only have a knob but there is no way to set it to a certain height. Is it just a case of making a test cut on some scrap first?
Earlier in the book it mentions that using a blade with more teeth should give a cleaner cut but the difference is minute. Really? I always thought more teeth = clean cut? Since it is laminated chipboard, I was going to get an 80T blade. Will I be wasting my time?
Finally (sorry for going on so long) I don't think I am getting the straight cuts I was hoping for. I guess that either I am not keeping the wood against the fence or the fence is moving. I think in the earlier thread people talked about clamping the far end of the fence provided it went all the way to the back of the table. None of the fences I have seen go the length of the table and the book says that doing so is dangerous.
More likely it is user error. is it just a matter of practice or are there any special techniques to keep the wood against the fence?
Thanks in advance.