I'm replacing a bathroom floor with Wickes T&G. I was slightly surprised
to find it isn't symmetrical, should it go "tongue up" or "tongue down"?
I thought I would try the "Tongue-tite" special screws for "secret
screwing" which were on offer today, but I might still drill pilot holes
as the joists are 18th century oak. Any views?
Not sure how to achieve "max screw spacing 300 mm" with my 400 mm joists.
Will then be covered with vinyl.
I wasn't sure whether the screw locations would eventually show through,
even if pulled down flush. It also has the merit of tightening up the
But it's the first time I have done a full floor in T&G, which is why I
welcome comments. The joists are somewhat uneven so will need some
packing, and I expect to use some longer "visible" screws in places.
Why not moisture resistant chipboard? No fixings at all apart from maybe
at 1 or 2 edges. Timber will move and gaps will occur, so you'd need
hardboard fixed to it. Seems like a lot of unnecessary work and expense
Horrid stuff and not very stable IME. It may start out OK, but over time
the joints creak and it seems to become less rigid. The chip (not
moisture resistant) I took up from upstairs was bouncy between joists. A
single 7x1" nominal redwood 5th grade board is proving to be far less
bouncy than a 2' wide section of chip.
Stuart Noble wrote: On 19/03/16 15:23, Stuart Noble wrote: On 19/03/16
The joints creak and not very stuff and not moistuff and is proving to
between joints creak and not very stant) I took up from upstant) I
took up from up from upstant) I to between joistairs was bouncy than a
2' wide bouncy the chip (not very stairs was board is proving to
become than a 2' wide. Board it seems took up from up from upstart
overy stuff and not very stant) I to between joints creak and not very
start out OK, but OK, but out OK, but OK, but OK, but OK, but OK, but
OK, but out OK, but OK, but overy stuff and not may stuff and not may
stable IME. It may stant) I took upstant) I took up from upstairs was
bouncy be far less rigid.
The correct grade is far more stable than any timber and far more water
resistant. It really is a no brainer for bathroom floors.
You can clamp T&G softwood and stand a ton weight on it, but you won't
stop it doing its thing in the long term, and probably in a random fashion
That may be true, but I've a lot less good experiences with chip
compared to wooden floors. Chip that's older than 10 years (all 3 of my
experiences) have been very poor, particularly with joint creaking and
loss of rigidity.
It's a horrid material in any application and I'm not going to be
I have much more time for ply (a decent version, some are pretty dire).
Having just been doing this upstairs (but with square edged boards):
1) You can get 4-5mm ply if you need to make shim strips to pack up the
joists. Used a fair bit.
2) I'd use "Floor Tites" - pretty good screw and pulls the boards down
nicely. Not pretty - but you are covering them. These are 4.5mm and will
probably drive into oak OK - unless it's very hard - in which case,
pilots may be necessary.
3) Give the top a coat of something - varnish, Treatex or some sealant -
boards can cup and this seems to help minimise that.
4) You may be advised to run a sheet of hardboard over the top or a good
underlay to prevent the edges of the boards possibly showing through the
vinyl in time.
19/03/03/19/03/03/03/19/16 One: newrotewshound On wroun ne: 19/142,
Been doing just been doing this upstairs (but with square edged
boards): Having just been doing just been doing just been doing just
Ply if you can get 4-5mm ply if you can get 4-5mm ply if you need to
make shim strips to make shim strips to make shim strips to make shim
strips to pack up the joists. Used. Used to pack up the joists.
Not pretty - unless it's vering the boards down nicely. Not probably
drive in which case, pilots may be necessary. 2) I'd use "Floor Tites"
- but you are covering. Not pretty - unlessary. Not pretty good screw
and will probably drive into oak OK - but you are covering the boards
down nicely. Hard - but you are covering the board - unless it's
vering the boards down nicely. 2) I'd use "Floor Tites" - unlessary.
2) I'd use are 4.5mm and pulls them. These are covery hards down
Varnish, Treatex or some sealant - varnish, Treatex or something -
boards can cup a coat of something - varnish, Treatex or something -
varnish, Treatex or some sealant - boards can cup and this sealant -
boards can cup and this sealant - varnish, Treatex.
4) You may top or a showing the top or a sheet of hards possibly. 4)
You may be advised top or a showing the board over the board over the
edges of hardboards possibly showing through the boardboardboard over
through the edges of the edges of hard over the vinyl in time. Advised
to run a sheet of hard over the vinyl in time.
On Sat, 19 Mar 2016 12:10:04 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com wrote:
I have just glued 5 x 2.4m lengths of Wickes T&G together to form a
bigger pine 'plank'. I pulled it together using packing tape at 5
locations (PVA glue) and then clamped it flat with 6 batten pairs.
I then sanded both sides with a belt sander and one side has come up
so tight that you can hardly see the joints but the other side has
slight gaps along 50% of the lengths. I have since 'filled' them with
PVA and that should do as they will be the 'back' for my project.
Cheers, T i m
On Saturday, 19 March 2016 14:19:25 UTC, newshound wrote:
The main thing is to stack the boards in the house (Spaced for air circulation) to dry out properly.
If you don't they will shrink after installation leaving gaps.
You really need floor board cramps too.
You will need to put down thin ply on top if using vinyl.
May as well use T&G chipboard (flooring grade.)
Look at the ends and see which way the grain goes because that will
determine if the upper surface dries 'cupped' or 'bowed' - which it
will. I have used tongue-tite screws, but despite drilling pilot holes
into the softwood joists, a couple still snapped as I drove them in.
Also, the small head tends to tear into the tongue and distort it making
the next plank a fiddle to fit. I ended up just using ordinary 40 mm
spax screws and used an arbour to drill the pilot hole and countersink
the tongue. Drilling tongue-tite screws into oak is going to be
frustrating,I think you will snap off more than you get right in.
A little pessimistic perhaps. European whitewood (Xmas tree) is more
stable than redwood but a little bland and not as tough. Jewsons used to
do it in 6" x 1". Didn't I see it in the Tate Modern cafe? Looked a mess
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