Suggestions for mounting bike stand on (maybe thin) concrete surface

It shouldn't 'leak away' unless it's very runny (it shouldn't be, it's basically like Araldite), it'll just bind together whatever's underneath. However it might need a lot of resin if there are lots of voids, and won't be very strong if it's just soil under there.

Postcrete? Break up the surface, dig down into the hardcore. Insert threaded rods at appropriate spacing, surround with postcrete mix. Slide stand over the top to ensure the geometry is right, wait for it to set.

If your attempts at drilling to break up the surface meet with solid concrete, then the resin anchors would work.

If you set female threads in the concrete, you can then have your choice of matching bolts. eg if you want to use a tri-wing or a security Torx or whatever (and can find them in M8 or M10 or whatever) then that's up to you.

For example:

Theo

Hi Theo Thanks for the pointers. I have found the internal threaded inserts now, even Screwfix do some - for some reason I couldn't find them earlier.

I would prefer not to go the Postcrete route as it potentially would make more of a mess that I want. I *think* the concrete is over hardcore, not soil, but I don't know how well tamped down it is.

I guess I can always give it a go with the resin and threads, and then lean on the stand a bit. If the fixings come out then I can try again, the hardened resin will have filled some of the air gaps at least...

Thanks, J^n

If it were that thin, the concrete would probably have broken up by now. However, you could dig a hole through it where you want to put the fixing and makes sure there is a BIG chunk of concrete underneath. That would also allow you to put in deep fixings before the concrete sets, using the rack as a guide. That would make it a lot easier to get them in the right place than trying to drill holes that match the ones in the fixing plates.

Once everything is set, fit the nuts and, using a big hammer, remodel the end of the thread. Do that right and you would need to take an angle grinder to the thread to get the nuts off. Of course, if you have access to a welder, you could weld the nuts on instead.

Think about the force on the bolts when you (or A N Other) apply a sideways force to the stand. It's one of the worst designs, and I've certainly seen this type of stand leaning over. I'd try to at least have some extra bracing somehow.

Best to make a stand from tube and have the ends well buried and concreted into the ground.

Hi Clive I think it is one of the *best* designs - but I do agree about the sideways forces, that's why I'm asking ;-).

Regards, J^n

The 'proper' stand is supposed to be set in a foot of concrete. I've never seen one leaning. The OP's using something else, and I'd agree that the fixing might be a problem. I'd certainly be setting long security bolts into a good lump of concrete

Which is pretty much what a Sheffield Stand is -

Which sees to show 300mm buried (presumably in concrete).

Sorry, I should have been clearer - the actual stand design is great, the 'worst design' I was referring to was the bolting to the ground. The link provided by RJH has a 'fixing type' option and it seems that 'root fixed' is the proper one.

That just makes fun of our provisions for bicycles.

Hardly any of our bicycle stands are fastened to tarmac. So cheap. So nasty.

I was parked at a Sheffield stand yesterday, one custom made from three inch pipe and bent with two nice radiuses. It's set in more than 300mm of concrete too. These double as bollards in front of a store. But we lock bikes to 'em.

And you can have thieves or you can have vandals. A vandal will just steal the seat off your bike, and throw it into the woods. Not every action, is for cash. Some is just spite.

Paul

The way many cyclists behave is pure road rage and vandalism.

Hi Clive yes, understood - I would have preferred a 'root fixed' type, but for my purposes the flange bolted to the ground will have to do. It's only for domestic purposes... it amuses me to have an 'industrial' design for such purposes.

J^n

The type with multiple hoops and a bar connecting them at ground level look less prone to getting leaned on