Sturmey Archer gurus?

[T i m]

Hi,

I am in the process of stripping a 3sp SA brake / hub (X-RD3) and wondered if anyone here was personally familiar with this range of hub (rather than the older models) and could offer any general advice re 'special tools' and lubrication?

The 'special tools' that might be available and could be recommended by SA are a 'C' spanner to hold the cone adjuster that goes through the brake backplate and a large notched ring spanner to remove the whole gear assembly from the hub. On the older (all steel?) hubs the latter seems to be accomplished by the use of hammer and drift / punch and whilst there is a tool for the cone adjuster (it might be a HSL

734) it may not be required and could be substituted by a strategically placed screwdriver as you tighten the locking nut up etc?

Then the is the lubrication ... it seems that the older SA geared hubs used oil but with this being a combined brake and geared hub they seem to suggest greases (to prevent oil contamination of the brake shoes). A white waterproof / marine grease is suggested (Sheldon Brown) for the bearings (especially the external ones) and a white light lithium grease for the gear parts (I have both here) ... and some drops of heavy oil on the gear spindles when assembling?

This post is really aimed at people who have RW experience of this, I have all the conventional cycle tools (spanners / pullers / splined tools etc) one would need for more typical cycle related jobs.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I was trying to remember when I first stripped a 3sp SA hub and it was when I was about 12 on my Mums Moulton Standard. ;-)

[Roger Mills]

Sorry, I don't have any *recent* experience. I stripped many a SA

3-speed hub in my youth, the most recent being in about 1960!

The thing I remember is that the big end cap at the opposite end to the sprocket had a left-hand thread, and was a sod to undo because it was tightened by the drive torque transmitted by the spring-loaded dogs, as you rode along. By far the easiest way was to grip its two flats in a vice and then turn the wheel clockwise.

[Mike]

The manual for the hub can be downloaded here:

- Mike

[T i m]

detail&id=286

Yeah, I have that in my library (but thanks) but when it comes to lubrication (specs) it only refers you to your dealer and no mention that I can see re the brake side cone adjustment tool.

It does however mention the need to 'align' the flats on the axle with the brake arm but that's not so easy to do ITRW till both are in place (eg, the wheel is in the bike). Also, there is nothing stopping the cone turning again, as you tighten the locknut. Of course, I'm sure you can get it right (just the right amount of free play whilst aligning properly) by a mix of trial and error and experience but it would all be easier with the tight tools.

I did spot mention of the use of a hammer and punch 'or' 'C' spanner to remove the main gear body from the hub so that could be ok as long as they haven't just lifted those instructions from the older manuals.

Cheers, T i m

[T i m]

;-)

My hub doesn't have one of those because the brake drum is there. ;-)

Yes, I have used that technique to my advantage in the past but there isn't enough material to do that on this hub (and certainly no flats) and so it's going to have to be a largish 'C' spanner (for cycles anyway ... ~58mm OD) or a hammer and drift. ;-(

I did consider using a hook wrench but I think it would require a 'square' cutout to engage properly and these are just semi-circular indents, suggesting a circular tool with semi-circular inward facing node that are simply provide an interference to the torque of the tool.

I think I've seen the genuine thing for £28 quid but that's quite a lot if I never use it again (I could always sell it I guess).

Or, 4 suitable diameter head cap head screws set in a bit of steel and held in the vice ... hmmm. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[Chris Bartram]

Any help?

[T i m]

Thanks for that Chris and yes, that's where I got most of the information I have so far (re lubrication especially).

It's like this. You generally get 'factory tools' that are optimal for the job but not generally cost effective for yer average home user.

So, there are then 'alternative' procedures that the home user (or cheapskate shop) like using a hammer and drift / punch instead of the 'proper' tool and that can often be perfectly acceptable, *as long as* it has proven to work over many years / people.

However, whilst the hammer / punch solution is proven when you have a square 'notch' designed for a 'C' spanner ... and a steel gear mech screwed into a *steel* hub, I'm not sure that would be exactly the same as a steel gear mech screwed into an *alloy* hub that may gall or distort and using half-round 'notch' that may not 'take' the end of a punch quite so nicely?

Now, I might be able to loosen it with a punch or even undo it with some big pipe wrenches or in the vice but I'd rather not muller it all up for the sake of not trying to be mechanically sympathetic / respectful to this £90 piece (just the hub assembly new) of precise engineering?

(You can just make out the 'notch' to the right of the right flange).

I know it's only 'a bike' but it's not a cheap bike and I'd like my servicing of it to make it better not worse on all counts.

No, 'It looks like some bodger has chewed it open' sorta thing. ;-(

Cheers, T i m