Glue sliver(s) of hardwood into slack holes. Bits of toothpick or easily
home made. Insert new screws whilst glue is still wet. A neater and longer
lasting bodge than body filler.
A musical instrument restorer showed me this years ago. It may be old
fashioned but has never failed me.
On the occasions when I buy a £howmuch?!? cappuchino from an overpriced
beverage emporium, I make sure to collect a few of the wooden stirrers they
supply you with - like thin lollipop sticks. These are a good source of wood
for such things, cut into splinters etc., and as Andy says, glued in with
any old PVA (or Cascamite if I'm really keen). I use them for mixing two-
part epoxy as well.
Mr. Cheapskate, J^n
The best wood fillers use polyester resin rather than epoxy, as used
in car body filler, and contain wood fibres rather than chalk. They
bond better to the wood, and are easier to sand. They also don't stink
the place out.
Try chalk on your crackers next time, instead of Camembert.
But neither filler is as solid as plugging the hole with glued wood
and screwing into that.
Polyester is cheap and bonds better which is why car and wood fillers
Depdending on which car filler you use, there may be strands of glass in
as well. Tha gives it better tensile strength. I don't think wood
fillers per se have any wood in them at all.
Total bollocks. The shear strength of polyester resin is massively
greater than wood is. Unless you are talking oak or lignum vitae :-)
Its not quite a metal insert, but its bloody close. I'd still use a self
tapper in polyester, or a woodscrew, but the actual result is way
stronger than wood.
Especially if you put in a dowel or similar with the grain running in
the screw axis direction. That can and will shear along the grain.
All you can say about car filler with fibreglass in it is that nearly
all the strands will be left in a mound around the top of the hole,
not pushed down into it.
Polyester car body filler is too stiff and in particular it doesn't
move with moisture changes. It'll work in a hole up to about 1/4"
diameter, but any bigger than that and it will tend to fall out after
a few years (worst case is filling keyholes in Victorian doors).
Polyester fillers sold for outdoor woodwork are filled to make them
Matchsticks are a very soft timber, so they fill easily and are easy
to drive screws into. However they aren't terribly strong, especially
not with modern twinthread screws. The best "wooden" filler is
something that's highly fibrous, with hard fibres in a soft matrix.
Palm would do this, but the obvious one that's ready to hand is
bamboo, hence the recommendation for barbecue skewers..
Wood is weak in shear and if you want figures, they're in the standard
handbooks. Try Hoadley's books, or the Forest Products Handbook.
Filled resins are harder, as they depend on your mixing and filler
proportions. However the Gougeon Brothers handbooks list them for
unfilled, and approximate values for filled, for a variety of resins.
Most resin makers will offer the figures for their products too.
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