Either teh air is going in or going out through the walls. If going it it cools the walls if going out it heats them..
Only a heat exchanger actually can combine the reverse flows with good thermal coupling, I am afraid.
May I suggest you study some basic engineering, especailly with respect to the engineering properties of wood?
I quoted the best ever book on the subject "Understanding wood" by Hoadley.
All your misconceptisn will be cleared up..
Not a good book on framing practice though. Hoadley is writing from a fresh continent, full of big straight trees. If you take him literally, cruck framing is impractical - the existence of Herefordshire suggests differently.
Under current building regs. Regulations for "one size fits all", whether you are building on swampland or solid granite isn't actually going to lead to cheap buildings.
A rational approach accepting limited movement in a structure, where it will not cause it to fail, and building regs that reflected this could make buildings cheaper.
Sorry but can't agree with this. Changes in our lifestyle have led to problems of damp in old houses but in most cases a bit of sensible repair work to guttering, garden and suchlike together with using appropriate materials fixes the problem. Yours may have been one of the ones which this didn't fix of course but this is unusual.
In any case, damp was not a problem in their design at the date of the design - it was our changes of use that caused it.
Now that we have devel>Is there a big enough market ? What angle should they be and how many years >growth ?
I don't think there is a market at all and there won't be until some rich heritage organisation hatches a plain to replicate the Mary Rose. Then whoever has been growing a set of bent trees will coin it. Dunno what angle. Shipbuilding and cruck houses are beyond my ken
Anna
~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England |""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs / ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc |____|
Which is a good argument for building regulations. Its the Grand Designs of the past which are still standing today. Joe Public lived in the most basic accommodation that his (land)lord could get away with providing. At least nowadays Wimpey & Barrett have some restraints on their build quality
The most basic Victorian houses were crappily built, but houses built for artisans and clerks were generally reasonably good construction quality in Victorian times and any damp is your own problem. You didn't happen to have emulsion paint and wallpaper on all of the walls perchance?
Anna
~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England |""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs / ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc |____|
True
Why do you consider it inappropriate? There is nothing inherently wrong with using lime for modern rigid building
At the moment its expensive compared to concrete. Delivered to site in silos the cost of lime mortar is (from memory) four times the price of concrete.
If lime becomes more widely used there will be increasing economies of scale and also lime takes much less energy to produce than does concrete which will definitely be in its favour as oil prices increase, which they will.
Anna
~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England |""""| ~ Lime plaster repairs / ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc |____|
About that, yes. Have been looking at either driving the compressor from our stream to avoid losses (and costs) from using an alternator followed by an electric motor but lots of other problems to overcome.
Agreed - I think I'm one of Secondsandco's and Optiroc's best customers.
That's what they used to say on the period property website but I am quite happy with the results. You can't 'hug the stone' inside but you don't freeze to death looking at it anymore either. Flooring still looks the same but there's huge amounts of Optiroc and lime underneath and the roofspaces, though still adequately ventilated all have effective U values of under
0.075 at the bedroom ceilings.You want an example of bent oak? Go here:
I don't know of methods of preserving softwoods without messing up the environment - why not just use the naturally durable softwoods such as larch, Douglas fir, Western Cedar and, interestingly, that much beloved of subusban gardens, Leylandii?
paint ?
Hardly timber framing though, is it - that's as much Mecanno as it is joinery.
Poor at preserving timber (it's just a skin - penetrate that and it rots just the same). It's also horrible environmentally - most paints, and pretty much all of the external ones, are either toxic resins, toxic pigments, or full of solvents.
Personally I like to use larch, if I'm not using oak. Pick the right board and the stuff's damn near pure plastic resin anyway.
paint ?
Interesting point - I was thinking of the 'preservative' fungicides. Of course the trouble with most modern paints is that they form a waterproof layer untill they inevitably crack and then they let in and trap water in the timber hastening its rot. Thus paint can do more harm than good by not allowing timber to dry out. Real linseed oil paint does not give rise to this problem.
Real linseed oil and real linseed oil paint is unavailable. You need to do paperwork to permit it, because of the lead content, and then you need a licence to make it, because there are no current producers. I make and use my own, but I can't sell it, or use it on products for sale.
Someone recently posted a link to Holkham paints. They offer a good range of linseed oil products, but they're dried with a manganese salt, not lead salts or a mix of both. This is better than the usual cobalt salts (dreadful things, but the shelf life is better). However manganese-dried oils work better in a dry climate. In the UK you can typically only apply them for a few months over the Summer. They also tend to crack more than lead-dried oils in damp weather. The mixed lead/manganese driers are by far the best for outdoor use in a damp climate, as they don't shrink so much.
Real linseed oil and real linseed oil paint is unavailable. You need to
do paperwork to permit it, because of the lead content, and then you need a licence to make it, because there are no current producers.
Oh dear. What I meant by real linseed oil pain is paint made with real linseed oil. It is available, as I said, from Holkham who supply the Sweedish Allback paints and from Peter Maitland-Hood's Real Paint and Varnish Co. The pigment is titanium dioxide rather than the poisonous lead carbonate. Colourwise its a very permanent pigment, actually performing better than lead in polluted atmosphere where lead pigments go yellow in a reaction with sulphur. You are right, Andy, about the greater flexibility of lead paint which makes it an even more durable product than Allback's. For this reason it is permitted to use it on grade 1 listed buildings with permission from English Heritage. Lead paint is still manufactured and available for such pruposes.
When using real linseed oil paint is certainly better to do exterior work in the summer and the trick is to paint it as thinly as you can. I find it can be repainted with another coat after two days.
Not so.. My foundations are at varying depths depending on te proximity of mature TREES never mind being in granite/sand etc.
Look in the regs. Depths are given for many types of soil, and proximity of trees is factored in as well. .
No, but 'most basic' probably applies to most of the victorian houses I have inhabited. Single brick, no damp course, rooting suspended pine floors due to rising damp, '2 up. 2 downer's' with usually an extension kitchen and bathroom tacked on the back.
I agree with Anna here. I built a brick wall with some cement and lime, and when I ran out of cement one day, practically all lime. It worked, although a cap I made on one pillar has frosted up a bit on the high lime stuff - its too porous I guess and so the water got in.. Its a perfectly useable material for bricklaying.
Mind you, bricks are high energy thimngs too, but then they don't half last. There is a lot of tudor brick around even today.
Then ensure it doesn't. In any case the paint on some of the frames on the farmhouse I am doing up looks like it's been there a very long time indeed without attention.
Modern ones quite possibly. If you make your own then far less so.
True. Though there are non-temperate zone woods which do the trick as well.
I see you are unable to grasp the concept.
This is a non sequitur, what have properties of wood to do with a permeable (strawbale) wall?
Your posts are hard enough to follow as it is without veering off into other subthreads of which you hold the misconception.
AJH
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.