Stair treads by T & G

You can easily end up with that much variation at the top or bottom just in variation of floor covering thickness... I guess if every step was

10mm different from the previous, then you would feel it!
Reply to
John Rumm
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The 6mm mdf is a 'jig' that will be removed after the router has done the edge of the tread. The bearing of the router bit will run against the mdf. On fixing the mdf to the underside of the tread the edge of the mdf would be just shy of the edge of the tread. To be exact, before routing the edge, the overlap of the tread over the mdf will be the difference between the cutter diameter and diam of the bearing plus an eighth. The nails will go thru the mdf and then the tread will be pressed down on the points to fix it in position.

Arthur

Reply to
Arthur2

Ah, ok this is just for getting a straight edge to the step. Sorry I though you were planing on leaving the MDF there.

Yup that would work, as would fixing the MDF close to the edge and using a standard flush trim bit. Personally I think I would just route along a straight edge clamped to the tread a measured distance from the back.

Alternatively place your MDF pattern on top and use a pattern following cutter, or simply a guide bush on the router.

When I did my stairs, I simply cut the treads to size with a circular saw and a saw board, and then routed a bullnose on the nosings with two passes of a bearing guided half round cutter - once from either side.

Reply to
John Rumm

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