I am aware of the expanging foam in a can for filling gaps.
Is there any equivalent product for covering flat areas?
I only want 2-3sq feet, so is it a case of using the gap filler version and spreading it?
Bob
You can certainly hire equipment for doing this on a large scale, but I'm not aware of any small scale diy versions.
Don't even try this - it's very messy, and all you end up with is a lumpy mess. BTDT.
Something which does sort of work, but takes some experimentation, is making a spray nozzle for the standard gap filling cartridges. You need quite a small orifice, but big enough to allow a reasonable flow of foam.
What are you trying to achieve and perhaps others can advise a different method?
CM.
You'll never manage to spread it, at least not well enough to avoid a model of the Himalaya. The stuff is stickier than the stickest stuff you have ever encountered.
Screwfix, there's a spray gun + cleaner + refills for one-shot PU foam in the adhesives and sealants section. But it takes skill to learn how to spray the stuff.
Could you box the surface that you want to coat, and line the box with something that can stay in place, then just use the injectable foam to fill it?
..or just use a flat sheet, e.g. an offcut of Celotex roofing panel ?
If you wanted a lot bigger then a Foamseal 200 kit comes with a nozzle that does allow this to be done to a reasonable degree. Unfortunately the 200 stands for 200 square feet :-(
The electric meter cupboard really mouldy, because it has 2 external walls (one is 3'x2', the other 3'x6") that get condensation. Ventilating the box more than it already is (loose fitting doors) would bring more air in there to be chilled, cuausing it to drop it's load of water. Since there are lots of boxes and wires all over in there, I thought it would be easier to spray on a layer of foam than to use polystyrene sheets.
Bob
Would just sticking a hairspray / paint can nozzle on there do it, or does it need to be bigger for a thicker liquid?
Bob
I used an old nozzle but had to drill out the hole a bit.
Having read what you want to use it for, i'd definitely advise against. Sheet is much easier.
How about ventilating it to the outside?
I would have to insulate the remaining 3 faces to avoid getting condensation on the outside (the living space side) of the cupboard. It would be easier though, since there are no wires or boxes on these faces. I would also have to seal the doors too.
Bob
OK, I will use sheet.
I assume I need to leave the wires accesible? I don't want to disturb anything. If I sheet as much as possible, and use filler foam for the gaps, that might do it(as long as the wires are visible right?). If I leave a gap to the sides of the wires, will I still get mould growing in the gaps?
Another prob, apart from the boxes and wires being in the way, is that it isn't plastered properly, so the foam sheet would only be stuck on peaks with air gaps behind it.
I will need filler anyway, since the meter and fuse box are mounted on chipboard, stood off from the wall on blocks half an inch thick. I was thinking of going around the perimeter behind these with the filler foam.
Bob
Cos it will derate them? What if they have no foam on top of them, ie all visible, but foam at the sides?
Bob
Yes, but don't foam around the wires!
Not just that, also:
That's what I was thinking.
Wouldn't adhesive foam strip would be enough for that?
Thanks for the heads up. I will use sheet as close to the wires as I can, and jam cotton wool down the sides in future if they get damp there. I will squirt foam around under the standoff bits, and the 2" strip of "andes" plastering along the top of the box.
Might even make it a usable space for dumping junk.
Bob
Are you sure that's still the case ? Seen a lot of instances with this and never seen a brittle cable.
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