Hi everyone I am installing a new kitchen and have had too pull down the ceiling to extend the ring main - SWMBO has now decided she wants spots rather than fluorescent lighting. So the question is how many spots would I need for a 3.6m squared room bearing in mind that I have a rafter running down the centre line of the room. we did think that 3 rows of 3 would be nice but cannot do it because of the centre rafter.(also how bright would 9 spots be?)
cheers
Mark
O O O O O O O O
Thats bright... 8-)
cheers Ben had thought of that but it still runs down the centre of the room where a rafter is situated
Mark
Because of the light distribution across lots of spots, you don't really need to go mad with them. Make sure you set them along the lines of the worktops, but not directly above the work surface, but above your head so you don't cast shadows on what you're working on. A couple in the middle of the floor area to make the whole room bright is also a good idea.
Depending on the height of the ceiling above the works surfaces, you'll find that Low Voltage Dichroic lamps spread their light out all along the area you need lit, so it's a good idea to try one held against the ceiling to see how many you need to make the worktop bright enough for working on safely. But you shouldn't need that many really.
Then the six outer will suffice for brightness.
If you get them all coordinate it won't look to bad without the center ones.
would 10 be too bright . o . o . o . o . o . o . o . o . o . o . lineof centre rafter
another question
i intend to run these 240v spots off one switch is this OK
so woud you say , if a worktop is 600mm then put a row in at that distance from the wall or would you say 700mm or 800mm?
Mark
Don't under estimate 6 of these lights as they are quite bright.
How come your using 240v ones?
12v lamps and 1 transformer is more economical.
They don't last any sort of reasonable time in my experiences with them, and we changes all ours to the Low Voltage types which now last for years instead of weeks.
I could kick myself. I installed a transformer and 3 12V halogens in our downstairs loo while the ceiling was off to be replasterboarded (to get rid of some really dreadful artexing).
A few years down the line the transformer has gone pop. But can I reach it? No, because I did it all neatly and screwed it to a joist. Now I can't reach in through the downlight holes 'cause my hands are too big, can't just pull the wires 'cause it's firmly fixed, and can't get to it from above without disturbing a complicated stairs and corner landing arrangement.
Any ideas?
When you stand at the worktop the lights are better above your head than the actual work surface itself, so you need to look at the position where you stand while working. My own personal position is two to three hundred millimetres out to the ceiling from the front edge of the worktop, which also helps in throwing light under wall units above the worktop areas. But you may find it better to have then closer or further depending on your whole positional design. But it's better to have them above heads than the actual worktop.
Holding one against the ceiling before you make final cuts for the lamp holders is the best way to make sure of the best positions for them. Holding one in the spot that gives the best light all along the worktop, then mark the spot with a pencil. Once you decide where they go roughly with this method, then you can use a measure to make the small final adjustments to the design to keep them all equal and things.
Get the wife to stand at the worktop making you a sandwich, and then hold the lamp above her head until she's happy that she can see exactly what she's doing. Also makes wives feel wanted I find. :-)
Is the ceiling just painted? If it is, then cut a small hatch in the plaster board to allow access, then put the hatch back against thin timber or plaster board slats glued to the back of the ceiling board with No More Nails. Tape the joints with masking tape and re-paint. Doesn't look to unsightly when done with care.
It is, but since part of the reason for redoing it was to get a 'perfect' finish I've been wary of going this route - my plastering/filling isn't
*that* good!!Added to which it's a very low ceiling (6'1) another reason why I (6') wanted rid of the Artex... makes any slight dodgy bit very visible though :-(
Also a sneaky way to get a sandwich :-)
Owain
I have just done a kitchen about 5m x 3.5m and used twelve lights, which is easily enough. Using fewer (eight, originally) left me with shadow areas on the floor and walls that I wasn't happy with - if you're not fussed about that, you could use fewer, strategically placed yourself, otherwise I think you've got it about right. I didn't use a pattern for siting the lights, I just put them where they were needed. All those on one switch should be ok but if you're planning to use a dimmer, get a 1000w version.
Depends on if you are talking dinky halogen GU10 spots, of conventional fillament R80 (or 64) mini reflector spots. That latter last better and give a wider field of coverage, but have a yellower output.
If you can't get at the transformer, can you get at the switched mains cable at any point? If so you could insert a new transformer and abandon the other one.
Good point, but I can't reach that bit either. I can see the cables leading to the junction box I put in to replace the old rose, but as luck wouold have it there are three T+Es plus the twin out to the switch so I don't fancy cutting all of them to reattach it.
Just wondering if now is the time to try and teach my 10yo son the joys of undoing connections blind... all power off of course!!
On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 16:06:39 GMT,it is alleged that "BigWallop" spake thusly in uk.d-i-y:
I would *definitely* second that, do not get 240v spotlights (at least not halogen/xenon, which I assume we're talking about here).
I have had to buy 2 GU10 50w spots in the last 3 weeks, going to replace them, the expense and annoyance is too much with them.
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