I have a Bosch rechargeable (old) battery gone dead. Bosch PSR 2.4 v Other nos on label
511 0 603 927 028The battery looks similar to a D ?? battery but like 2 joined together in a cardboard sleeve inside the screwdriver.
Any ideas of an equiv or where they can be sourced.
Most power tools use what are called Sub-C cells. They can be bought individually with 'tags' which allow them to be soldered together. Expect to pay about 4-5 quid per cell for decent ones. Most electronics suppliers have them, even Maplin. Be wary of cheap ones from China on Ebay.
You'll need to know if they are NiCds or NiMH. I have an old 3 Sub-C cell one, and that uses NiCds, which I have replaced once or twice. They've got harder to find, but I really like that screwdriver - much nicer than anything newer that I've played with.
I've a favourite 9v6 Bosch that needs re-celling, and having just had a look on Ebay I see that there is really little choice but Chinese ones. Has anyone found any of these usable or do I have to search more extensively at home for what might just be the same thing with a UK mark up on it.
Rob
No but have a look at the Maplin battery boxes for a couple of ordinary AA NiMh with the PP9 type contacts on top. It makes a quick and cheap alternative to tagged C cells and might have the capacity that you
I bought from somewhere like CPC, or Maplin, or Farnell (can't recall now), but whereever it was, was reducing their range of NiCds. I wanted reasonable quality ones.
I don't think I'd buy rechargables off ebay.
worst time as I am laying ply for tiling a kitchen and over 1000 screws to fix! My wrists wont take trying to do manually.
Does the Bosch website not have recommendations? I got the contact for the B&D "repair people" and their website had lots of spare parts, including replacement batteries for my own screwdriver. possibly a little more pricey than sourcing yourself but "time is money".
Paul DS
exactly the batteries it was designed for.
For this sort of thing, I put a screwdriver bit into my SDS drill, which has a good low gear and excellent low speed control. (Not in hammer mode though;-) It's much faster than a battery screwdriver.
In message , robgraham writes
I have a favourite 9.6V Bosch drill which needed re-celling a few years ago. Somebody in here recommended a re-cell company (possibly recellyourbattery.com). In the event, they were able to supply a complete replacement for little more than the re-celling charge plus postage.
With the move away from ni-cad, things may have changed.
regards
It's probably cheaper to buy an whole new drill/driver.
For general screwdriving a drill designed for it would be just fine. The pukka small power screwdrivers can be quite useful for smaller jobs where space is limited. The impact Makita TD020D does both jobs - but was yesterday's must have as I've not seen them on sale recently.
Not really provided you take care over the charging.
Same here ancient B&D straight screwdriver, damn excellent bit of kit. Recelled twice now, last time with NiMH. It's the primative (even for NiCds) charger that lets it down and kills the cells. I must build a decent charger for it. Though just remembering to only charge for at most 24hrs at a time and not to leave it in the de-powered charger bracket works well enough.
As I needed one urgently I went to screwfix for a £22 cheapo, out of stock so nipped in to B&Q and got one for £14, ideal for what I want and probably cheaper than batteries for the old one, I dont use them often so should last a few years.
thanks to all for the replies. Much appreciated.
I think we have exactly the same one! It's got a very clever automatic spindle lock built into the tail end of the gearbox (which I didn't actually appreciate until I had the gearbox in pieces one day). If the motor is driving the bit (in either direction), it rotates freely. If the bit it trying to drive the gearbox (as happens if you try using it as a manual screwdriver), it instantly locks the bit solid. It has a set of rollers in something which looks a bit like a minature wankel engine, relying on the rollers jamming or not, to engage or disengage the locking of the bit to the case. It was a bugger to reassemble. I initially gave up, being unable to see what that part did. Then I found I couldn't use it as a manual screwdriver as it tended to cause the motor to spin instead. Took it all apart again, and with much difficulty, managed to get all the rods back in place, and it was working again.
I'm sure that locking mechanism must have a name, and probably a patent too.
Charger is just an AC wall wart, with a half-wave rectifying diode in the holder which makes contact with the charging contacts. Amazingly, I have actually got long life and lots of use out of each set of batteries.
B&D 9019
ISTR having a bit of fun getting it all back together as well.
That sums it up, the charge rate is almost but not quite "safe" but if you switch the power off the leakage is enough to drain things over a month. NiCds don't like that...
In message , Andrew Gabriel writes
Sounds like a sprag clutch variant.
regards
>
Yep.
[googles] possibly, but most of the descriptions of sprag clutches definitely don't match. I found just one which does:
So it's a bidirectional back-stopping clutch. You can drive power through it either clockwise or anti-clockwise from one side, but it instantly locks solid if you try to drive power (clockwise or anti-clockwise) through it in the other direction.
Most of the sprag clutch descriptions talk about freewheeling, and this one doesn't do that in any mode.
That's correct. I built a basic sprag clutch out of Meccano years ago..fascinating - and that was a free wheeler, but a double sprag clutch becomes a unidirectional torque transfer device.
(Its a sad day when my dictionary for the spill chucker doesn't feature either sprag, or Meccano..or indeed chucker :-))
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