Soundproofing Question

I've searched this group re soundproofing and got some useful information b= ut I was wondering if I could get some more specific help.

I live in a 1940s semi-detached.

Neighbours are generally fine. Not deliberately noisy but I can hear cupboa= rd doors, work surface knocks and their footsteps on the landing when I'm u= pstairs. I regularly get woken up early in the morning by the noise so want= to get it sorted.

The rooms where there are chimney breasts on the party wall are not so bad = but was wondering if I put some dense soundproofing plasterboard directly a= gainst them it would help. I can't bring the wall in too much because of do= or frames.

Re my landing floorboards, what would be the most cost effective way of red= ucing the sound? I thought maybe some really heavy underlay but if the soun= d is going via the joists and cavity, what would you recommend? The sound i= s coming from their side in some way.

Thanks very much.

Reply to
billshatner71
Loading thread data ...

reducing the sound? I thought

cavity, what would you recommend?

The single brick wall between semis common at that time was often full of air gaps just below floor level which let sound through with ease. Sealing those gaps is the single most effective solution (and has distinct advantages for fire safety as well). Unfortunately whilst simple it is also very time consuming as it involves either lifting a lot of floor boards or removing ceilings.

Reply to
Peter Parry

I was wondering if I could get some more specific help.

In case you didnt see it already:

formatting link

Reply to
meow2222

reducing the sound? I thought

ts and cavity, what would you recommend?

First ascertain which way the joists are running (ie they will be at right angles to floorboards)

Additional to the above, you need to look in the roof space to see if there are holes between your roof space and next doors. Usually where party wall meets roof slates/tiles/whatever.

Only takes quite a small hole to let sounds in.

Reply to
harry

but I was wondering if I could get some more specific help.

oard doors, work surface knocks and their footsteps on the landing when I'm= upstairs. I regularly get woken up early in the morning by the noise so wa= nt to get it sorted.

d but was wondering if I put some dense soundproofing plasterboard directly= against them it would help. I can't bring the wall in too much because of = door frames.

educing the sound? I thought maybe some really heavy underlay but if the so= und is going via the joists and cavity, what would you recommend? The sound= is coming from their side in some way.

Most of the things you describe are structure borne noise. Such noise trans= mitted through the structure is almost impossible to get rid of. For exampl= e, you can be in a house where you never hear the neighbours' voices, but a= cup being stirred on the worktop of a fitted kitchen will transmit through= a solid wall ! You would have to fully isolate the structure - i.e. a detached house !

Strangely, it is said that modern party walls are higher rated than the tra= d 9" solid wall with plaster both sides, but you get lots of complaints fro= m new build owners saying the wall these days are made of paper ... Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

on but I was wondering if I could get some more specific help.

pboard doors, work surface knocks and their footsteps on the landing when I= 'm upstairs. I regularly get woken up early in the morning by the noise so = want to get it sorted.

bad but was wondering if I put some dense soundproofing plasterboard direct= ly against them it would help. I can't bring the wall in too much because o= f door frames.

reducing the sound? I thought maybe some really heavy underlay but if the = sound is going via the joists and cavity, what would you recommend? The sou= nd is coming from their side in some way.

nsmitted through the structure is almost impossible to get rid of. For exam= ple, you can be in a house where you never hear the neighbours' voices, but= a cup being stirred on the worktop of a fitted kitchen will transmit throu= gh a solid wall !

rad 9" solid wall with plaster both sides, but you get lots of complaints f= rom new build owners saying the wall these days are made of paper ...

Hi, I have a similar problem - but a lot lot worse, I would be interested in any results you get!

Reply to
alec green

I hope you've made some progress. I may have a go at doing this:

formatting link

Reply to
billshatner71

I meant to say, thanks to all who replied.

Ed.

Reply to
billshatner71

I'm building a new internal wall of heavy concrete blocks and then puting sand behind it to try to reduce sound to and from neighbours. [g]

Reply to
george - dicegeorge

You might be better off with an air gap ...

Reply to
tony sayer

When I was looking at this, it was recommended to have suspended mineral wool not touching the sides. How much difference this makes from an air gap I'm not sure. I supposed its to absorb sounds reverberating around the cavity. Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

not touching the sides. How much difference this makes from an air gap I'm not sure. I supposed its to absorb sounds reverberating around the cavity.

Mineral wool acts like air, but with a bit of damping.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

Yes it can help...

The real idea is to have mass a gap and mass again...

Not always that simple of course...

Reply to
tony sayer

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.